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Ali si delavci s hitro prehrano lahko privoščijo hitro prehrano? (Diaprojekcija)

Ali si delavci s hitro prehrano lahko privoščijo hitro prehrano? (Diaprojekcija)

Koliko časa mora delati delavec z minimalno plačo, da si lahko privošči najdražjo jed na meniju?

20) McDonald's, jugozahodna piščančja solata, 4,79 USD (38,3 minute)

Najbolj priljubljena veriga hitre hrane na svetu z hamburgerji je na našem mestu na 20. mestu. Medtem ko so cene nekaterih njihovih specialnih četrt funtov in solat nekoliko višje, na splošno večina jedilnikov spada v vrednostni obrok. Ponujajo tudi obroke dodatne vrednosti, ki vključujejo krompirček in pijačo, a najdražji izdelek je njihova jugozahodna piščančja solata s piščancem na žaru ali hrustljavo.

19) Chick-fil-A, sendvič s piščancem na žaru, 4,89 USD (39,1 minute)

Chick-fil-A se je v Gruziji začel z obljubo, da bo množicam zagotovil kakovostno piščančje meso. Njihove jedi so ponavadi nekoliko višje od konkurentov zaradi kakovosti piščanca, uporabljenega v njihovih sendvičih. Piščančji sendvič s čokolado je najdražji izdelek na meniju in znaša 4,89 USD.

18) Burger King, piščančji sendvič Chipotle, 4,99 USD (39,9 minut)

Burger King se pogosto srečuje z nasprotnikom McDonald'som in ima pogosto tudi višje cene. Veriga ima več kot 12.000 restavracij s hitro prehrano v več kot 70 državah po svetu. Trenutno je njihov najdražji izdelek sezonski piščančji sendvič Chipotle. Potrošniki za 4,99 USD lahko izbirajo med hrustljavim piščancem ali piščancem na žaru.

17) Sonic, SuperSONIC Bacon Double Cheeseburger, 5,09 USD (40,7 minute)

Sonic Drive-In je priljubljena veriga hitre prehrane z več kot 3.500 lokacijami v 43 državah. Pokrovitelji se lahko odločijo za vožnjo in parkiranje, da uživajo v hrani, ali pa se fizično sprehodijo do prodajalne Sonic. (Dodatni bonus: strežniki se pripeljejo do avtomobilov, ki nosijo rolerje.) Meni je precej obsežen in ponuja vse od sladkih psov do hrenovk do burgerjev. Dvojni Cheeseburger SuperSONIC Bacon je en ogromen sendvič, za katerega restavracija zaračuna 5,09 USD.

16) Arby's, Angus Philly, 5,29 USD (42,3 minute)

Arby's, ki je najbolj znan po pečenki in govedini ter sendvičih s čedarjem, je v lasti istega podjetja kot Wendy's in so si po ceni zelo podobni. Klasični sendvič z govedino in čedarjem, ki ga mnogi poznajo, stane 3,69 USD, toda za tiste, ki želijo preizkusiti meje, sta njegov sendvič Angus Philly ter sir in slanina Angus stala ogromnih 5,29 USD.

15) Taco Bell, Fiesta Taco solata, piščanec, 5,49 USD (43,9 minute)

Taco Bell v primerjavi z drugimi tekmeci v hitri hrani velja za stroškovno učinkovitejšo možnost kot Wendy's ali Arby's. Znani so po izdelkih v slogu Tex-Mex, kot so quesadillas, burritos in nachos. Vendar, da bi sledili trendu ponudbe zdravih jedi na menijih, restavracija zdaj ponuja solato Fiesta Taco s piščancem, ki stane 5,49 USD.

14) Mlečna kraljica, piščančja solata, 5,59 USD (44,7 minute)

Medtem ko je Dairy Queen znana po sladoledu, metuljih in drugih zamrznjenih dobrotah, številne njihove lokacije ponujajo polnovreden meni s hrano. Imajo pol funtov FlameThrower GrillBurger, ki stanejo pri 5,29 USD, vendar ne gre zanemariti njihove piščančje solate, hrustljave ali na žaru, ki stane kul 5,59 USD.

13) Culver's, Double Culver's Bacon Deluxe, 5,59 USD (44,7 minute)

Ta veriga s hitro prehrano na Srednjem zahodu je znana po burgerjih na maslu, ki so relativno večji od hamburgerjev njihovih konkurentov. Pokrovitelji se zgrinjajo tudi v lokalno restavracijo zaradi svojih napitkov, sladov in zamrznjene kreme. Najdražji meni v tem trenutku je The Culver's Bacon Deluxe po ceni 5,59 USD.

12) KFC, Znane sklede, 5,99 USD (47,9 minut)

KFC, priljubljen zaradi svojega okusnega ocvrtega piščanca, je naredil velik korak k ustvarjanju bolj zdravih jedilnikov in ponudbi drugih alternativ, kot so priljubljene slavne sklede KFC. Medtem ko je KFC znan tudi po tem, da streže večje obroke v družinskem slogu, ki vključujejo mešano raznolikost piščančjih kril in bobnov, so Famous Bowls najcenejši posamezni jedilni meni, ki stane 5,99 USD.

11) Wendy's, Baconator, različne solate 6,29 USD (50,3 minute)

Wendy's je med najboljšimi restavracijami s hitro prehrano v državi dosledno na tretjem mestu za McDonald'som in Burger Kingom. Medtem ko njihov meni vsebuje različne hamburgerje, piščanca, sendviče in krompirček, so najbolj znani po tem, da za svoje hamburgerje uporabljajo pecivo kvadratne oblike. Njihove solate so razmeroma drage, na primer njihova solata iz jabolkovih pekanov, piščanec BLT Cobb in pikantni piščanec Cezar, ki ustrezajo ceni njegovega priljubljenega prevelikega hamburgerja Baconator. Vsi artikli stanejo 6,29 USD.

10) Steak 'n Shake, jugozahodna piščančja solata, jabolčna pecan solata in California Steak Burger, 6,49 USD (51,9 minute)

Podobno kot pri Wendyjevi cenovni strukturi so najdražji jedilniki v Steak 'n Shakeu njihovi posebni hamburgerji in njihove solate v polni velikosti. Steak 'n Shake najdemo večinoma v državah srednjega zahoda in juga in so zaradi 24-urne politike zelo privlačni za potrošnike. Steakburgers v restavraciji so goveji hamburgerji iz T-kosti, fila in okroglih zrezkov, zaradi katerih je kakovost hrane višja v neposrednem nasprotju s številnimi konkurenti. Njihove solate skupaj s kalifornijskim zrezkom Burger stanejo 6,49 USD.

9) Chipotle, Burrito Bowl, Carnitas ali Barbacoa, 6,65 USD (53,2 minute)

Mehiški žar Chipotle je znan kot restavracija s hitro restavracijo. Pokrovitelji lahko izbirajo med različnimi možnostmi, kot so sklede za burrito, burritos, tacos in solate, lahko pa se odločijo za dodajanje prelivov, kot sta salsa in guacamole. Vsi njihovi izdelki uporabljajo naravne in organske sestavine. Njihov edini najdražji izdelek je njihova posoda za burrito, sestavljena iz riža in izbire mesa. Če pa se gostje odločijo dodati sir, dodatno meso ali piščanec in guacamole, se cena dramatično poveča in pogosto lahko stane več kot 10 USD. Sama posoda za burrito brez dodatkov s karnitami ali barbacoajem (izbira mesa) stane 6,65 USD.

8) Long John Silver's, košara za kozice, 6,79 USD (54,3 minute)

Z več kot 1.300 restavracijami Long John Silver po vsem svetu se je veriga hitre prehrane z morskimi sadeži uveljavila s ponudbo večjih obrokov v nasprotju z edinstvenimi jedmi. Ponujajo različne krožnike in družinske obroke, ki so izjemno stroškovno učinkoviti. Najdražji edinstven izdelek je košara za kozice, ki stane 6,79 USD.

7) Five Guys, Bacon Cheeseburger, 6,99 USD (55,9 minut)

Pet fantov je znano kot kakovostnejša burgerjeva veriga, ki uporablja 100 % sveže goveje meso brez polnil ali konzervansov. Dodaten bonus pri Five Guys je, da ko kupec naroči hamburger ali hrenovko, mu ponudijo obilo prelivov, vključno z majoneto, solato, kislimi kumaricami, paradižnikom, čebulo na žaru, gobami na žaru, kečapom, gorčico, okusom, čebulo, jalapenom, zelena paprika, A.1. Zrezki, omaka z žara in pekoča omaka brez dodatnih stroškov. Najdražji artikel trenutno je cheeseburger iz slanine, prodan za 6,99 USD.

6) Jimmy John's, The J.J. Gargantuan, 7,59 USD (60,7 minut)

Jimmy John's je podprodaja s hitro prehrano, ki tekmuje s Subwayom in Quiznosom. Medtem ko druga dva ponujata različne velikosti podplatov, Jimmy John's ponuja 8-palčne podplate, zaradi česar so nekoliko dražji. Njihov najdražji meni je JJ Gargantuan, podloga, napolnjena s genovsko salamo, narezano dimljeno šunko, kapicolo, pečenko, puranom in provolonom, ki jo postrežejo na domači francoski žemljici, zadušeni s čebulo, majoneto, solato, paradižnikom in domačim Italijanski preliv. Prevelik podplat stane 7,59 USD.

5) Beli grad, vreča ribjih grizljačev, 7,99 USD (63,9 minute)

Beli grad, veriga burgerjev, znana po svojih majhnih drsnikih, je običajno na spodnjem koncu stroškovnega spektra za dobavitelje hitre hrane. Eden njihovih dražjih edinstvenih predmetov pa je vreča ribjih grizljalcev, ki stane 7,99 USD, kar je precej visoko v primerjavi z enojnimi drsniki, ki stanejo 0,69 USD.

4) Quiznos, Black Angus on Rosemary Foccacia, Large, 7,99 USD (63,9 minute)

Trgovina s sendviči Quiznos iz Denverja ponuja vrsto možnosti, ko gre za velike in majhne sendviče. Quiznos je drugi po Subwayu po skupnem prihodku in priljubljenosti ter ponuja številne druge možnosti menija, razen podplatov, ki vključujejo sokove, solate in juhe. Trenutno je na vrhu menija črni zrezek Angus na rožmarinovi focaccii, ki stane 7,99 USD.

3) Podzemna železnica, Big Philly Cheesesteak, 8,25 USD (66 minut)

Subway, številka ena sendvič verige v ZDA, ima široko paleto možnosti, ki se razlikujejo po cenah. Toda njihov največji, najbolj nezaslišano drag meni je petelin Big Philly Cheesesteak, ki stane kul 8,25 USD. Družba jih je poimenovala "sanje ljubitelja mesa", sendvič pa vključuje narezan zrezek, zadušen s topljenim sirom.

2) Panda Express, poljubna predjed (vključno z mandarinskim piščancem, pekinško govedino itd.), 9,50 USD (76 minut)

Panda Express je znana restavracija s hitro prehrano, priznana kot najboljša za postrežbo "amerikanizirane" kitajske hrane. Panda Express z več kot 1500 restavracijami po vsej državi slovi po krožnikih kitajske hrane, ki mešajo in ujemajo možnosti in strani predjedi. Najdražji izdelek pa je vsak posamezen vnos, ki vključuje izbire, kot sta Mandarin Chicken ali Bejing Beef, ki se prodajajo za 9,50 USD za velik krožnik.

1) Kruh Panera, testenine Pesto Sechettinni in Penne Bolognese, 9,99 USD (79,9 minut)

Panera Bread se povečuje, ko gre za bolj zdrave možnosti za sprostitev. Ta restavracija ponuja številne različne menije, vključno s sendviči, panini, solatami, juhami in testeninami. Trenutno je pasta na vrhu seznama najdražjih živil. Velika pesto testenine Sechettinni stanejo 9,99 USD, prav tako pa tudi rustikalna penne Bolognese.


Od eskargotov do le Big Maca: kako je dežela visoke kuhinje padla na hitro hrano

Francoska hrana: tako dobra, da so jo modre glave pri Unescu razglasile za del svetovne nesnovne kulturne dediščine, tako slavljene, da je ljubezen do nje opredelila narod.

"Povej mi, kaj ješ, in povedal ti bom, kaj si," kot je prvotni ljubitelj hrane, gastronom Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, zapisal leta 1825. In bil je nekdo, ki je nedvomno poznal njegovo lečo vertes du puy et kaviar langoustines à la nage in njegov poulette du perche iz njegovega poitrine de grive.

Francoske prehranjevalne navade - in ne le v restavracijah - so bile že leta vzor: obrok kontrolira veliko osnov (jajca, maslo, kruh, krompir), malo predelane ali hitre hrane, veliko rib, sadja, rastlinskih olj in (seveda) polnomastni mlečni, strukturirani, družabni obroki, osredotočeni na družino. Konec koncev se Francozinje ne zredijo.

Zakaj je torej prejšnji teden novo poročilo nakazovalo, da bi lahko bilo do leta 2030 30 milijonov ljudi - skoraj polovica prebivalstva države - debelih? In kako to, da je v sončnem času za kosilo v začetku jeseni vrsta pred McDonald'som-enim od 1440 v Franciji, drugem največjem svetovnem trgu verige-na Boulevard des Italiens v središču Pariza?

"Ne morem verjeti, da to sprašujete," je rekla Stephane Loiseau, 29-letna skrbnica računa, ki je prisluhnila njegovemu naročilu-"un CBO”(Piščanec, slanina, čebula) s krompirčkom - na zaslon na dotik. "To je takšen klišej. So poceni, hitri so in uporabljajo zelo dobre sestavine. Zakaj bi bili Francozi drugačni od preostalega sveta? "

Enako je zaničevala tudi Natalie Girardot, prodajna pomočnica v bližnji draguljarski trgovini. "Ali veste, da uporabljajo vse francoske sestavine?" je rekla in pokazala na pladenj. »Poglej: goveje meso Charolais, sir fourme d’Ambert na vrhu. Plus ustrezen vinaigrette. Francija obožuje McDonald's. Vedno je uspelo. "

To ni povsem res. Naslednje leto je pred dvajsetimi leti kmet z ovcami, brkatimi brki, imenovanim José Bové, s skupino manjših lastnikov in nekdanjih hipij razstavil napol zgrajen McDonald's v Millauu na jugu Francije in začel nacionalni križarski pohod proti la malbouffe - hitra hrana.

Toda zdaj ima Francija rad hamburgerje: raziskava, ki jo je v začetku tega leta objavila svetovalna družba Gira Conseil, je pokazala, da je 66 milijonov ljudi v državi v letu 2017 zaužilo 1,46 milijarde, kar je skoraj 10% več kot prejšnje leto. Morda še bolj presenetljivo, da so hamburgerji zdaj na meniju 85% francoskih restavracij. Ne da bi jih poklicali malbouffe. V L'Artisan du Burger na rue du Faubourg Poissonnière so hamburgerji s sestavinami, vključno z rukolo, limetino lupino, sirom reblochon, kompotom iz rdeče čebule in prekajeno začimbno omako, stali 12 evrov (več, če jih želite v pecivu iz lignjevega črnila, polnjenem z semena nigelle ali črne kumine).

"Zdaj so del naše nacionalne kuhinje," je dejala Sara Vérier, bančna delavka in pogosta obiskovalka restavracij. »Skoraj vsak kraj - tudi nekateri res zelo pametni - naredi vsaj enega. Dobiš lepe francoske pridihe: klinček foie gras, roquefort. Včasih celo tartufi. "

Bernard Boutboul, generalni direktor Gira Conseil, opisuje navidezno neustavljiv vzpon burgerja v Franciji kot "evforijo, norost", ki je zdaj začela mejiti na "histerijo", pri čemer so elegantni burgerji prodajali francoske bistroje, kot sta račja prsa in boeuf bourguignon. številne restavracije.

Toda velika večina burgerjev, ki jih uživajo v Franciji - 70% - je daleč od hitre hrane. Jedli so jih sedeli za mizo s (pogosto) kozarcem vina v »ustrezni« restavraciji. Kar pa ne pomeni, da dom visoke kuhinje ni padel na hitro hrano: je. Francoske prehranjevalne navade se spreminjajo.

Vse večji časovni pritisk (po eni raziskavi si povprečni francoski delavec zdaj ne privošči 31-minutnega odmora) in pojav storitev dostave na dom, kot sta Deliveroo in UberEats, sta zaznamovala sektor hitre prehrane v državi eksponentno razširiti.

Francoskih 32.000 prodajaln s hitro prehrano je lani prodalo približno 51 milijard EUR-6% več kot leta 2016, 13% več kot pred štirimi leti in skoraj trikrat več kot leta 2005. Še več, zdaj predstavljajo 60% celotne Francoska restavracija.

Hitra hrana "ne pomeni nujno, da ne jeste dobro," je dejala Josiane Bouvier, učiteljica geografije, ki prihaja iz Nousa, ekološke priprave na rue du Châteaudun, z nefrancoskim "hotboxom" piščanca na žaru, mete jogurta omaka, sezonska solata in polnozrnati riž. "Mislim, da se mnogi Francozi, ki hodijo celo v lokale s hitro prehrano, zelo zavedajo kakovosti sestavin in tega, ali se jedi res pripravljajo v prostorih," je dejala. "Ampak to je, če si lahko za kosilo privoščite devet, 10 ali 12 evrov."

In tu je stvar. Dobra hrana v Franciji ni več poceni - v restavracijah ali doma. Državna podjetja za predelavo in distribucijo hrane so velika in močna. Nacionalna agencija za prehrano Anses pravi, da francoske prehranjevalne navade niso več vzor: zdaj vključuje vedno več visoko predelanih živil, preveč soli in premalo vlaknin.

Kljub vsemu posebnemu odnosu do hrane Francija še zdaleč ni imuna na la malbouffe. Poslanci so prejšnji teden poročali, da bo kar 30 milijonov Francozov, predvsem v gospodinjstvih z nižjimi dohodki, do leta 2030 debelo ali prekomerno telesno težo, razen če velika živilska podjetja razrežejo sol, sladkor, maščobe in druge dodatke, otroci pa se izobražujejo za bolj zdravo prehrano.

"Francoske družine porabijo manj denarja in manj časa za hrano kot kdaj koli prej," je dejal en poslanec Loïc Prud'homme. "Moramo prevzeti nadzor nad tablicami."

Druga, Michèle Crouzet, ki se je zavzela za manj soli v hrani, je bila bolj ostra. Francozi "ne umirajo od preveč hrane," je dejala, "vendar nas hrana, ki jo zaužijemo, postopoma ubija."


Od eskargotov do le Big Maca: kako je dežela visoke kuhinje padla v hitro hrano

Francoska hrana: tako dobra, da so jo modre glave pri Unescu razglasile za del svetovne nesnovne kulturne dediščine, tako slavljene, da je ljubezen do nje opredelila narod.

"Povej mi, kaj ješ, in povedal ti bom, kaj si," kot je prvotni ljubitelj hrane, gastronom Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, zapisal leta 1825. In bil je nekdo, ki je nedvomno poznal njegovo lečo vertes du puy et kaviar langoustines à la nage in njegov poulette du perche iz njegovega poitrine de grive.

Francoske prehranjevalne navade - in ne samo v restavracijah - so bile že leta vzor: obrok nadzoruje veliko osnov (jajca, maslo, kruh, krompir), malo predelane ali hitre hrane, veliko rib, sadja, rastlinskih olj in (seveda) polnomastni mlečni, strukturirani, družabni obroki, osredotočeni na družino. Konec koncev se Francozinje ne zredijo.

Zakaj je torej prejšnji teden novo poročilo nakazovalo, da bi lahko bilo do leta 2030 30 milijonov ljudi - skoraj polovica prebivalstva države - debelih? In zakaj na sončnem kosilu v začetku jeseni je vrsta pred McDonald'som-ena od 1.440 v Franciji, drugi največji svetovni trg verige-na Boulevard des Italiens v središču Pariza?

"Ne morem verjeti, da to sprašujete," je rekla Stephane Loiseau, 29-letna skrbnica računa, ki je prisluhnila njegovemu naročilu-"un CBO”(Piščanec, slanina, čebula) s krompirčkom - na zaslon na dotik. "To je takšen klišej. So poceni, hitri so in uporabljajo zelo dobre sestavine. Zakaj bi bili Francozi drugačni od preostalega sveta? "

Enako je zaničevala tudi Natalie Girardot, prodajna pomočnica v bližnji zlatarni. "Ali veste, da uporabljajo vse francoske sestavine?" je rekla in pokazala na pladenj. »Poglej: goveje meso Charolais, sir fourme d’Ambert na vrhu. Plus ustrezen vinaigrette. Francija obožuje McDonald's. Vedno je uspelo. "

To ni povsem res. Naslednje leto je pred dvajsetimi leti kmet z ovcami, brkatimi brki, imenovanim José Bové, s skupino manjših lastnikov in nekdanjih hipij razstavil napol zgrajen McDonald's v Millauu na jugu Francije in začel nacionalni križarski pohod proti la malbouffe - hitra hrana.

Toda zdaj ima Francija rad hamburgerje: raziskava, ki jo je v začetku tega leta objavila svetovalna družba Gira Conseil, je pokazala, da je 66 milijonov ljudi v državi v letu 2017 zaužilo 1,46 milijarde, kar je skoraj 10% več kot prejšnje leto. Morda še bolj presenetljivo, da so hamburgerji zdaj na meniju 85% francoskih restavracij. Ne da bi jih poklicali malbouffe. V L'Artisan du Burgerju na ulici Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière so hamburgerji s sestavinami, vključno z rukolo, limetino lupino, sirom reblochon, kompotom iz rdeče čebule in prekajeno začimbno omako, stali 12 evrov (več, če jih želite v pecivu iz lignjevega črnila, polnjenem z semena nigelle ali črne kumine).

"Zdaj so del naše nacionalne kuhinje," je dejala Sara Vérier, bančna delavka in pogosta obiskovalka restavracij. »Skoraj vsak kraj - tudi nekateri res zelo pametni - naredi vsaj enega. Dobiš lepe francoske pridihe: klin foie gras, roquefort. Včasih celo tartufi. "

Bernard Boutboul, generalni direktor Gira Conseil, opisuje navidezno neustavljiv vzpon burgerja v Franciji kot "evforijo, norost", ki je zdaj začela mejiti na "histerijo", pri čemer so elegantni burgerji prodajali francoske bistroje, kot sta račja prsa in boeuf bourguignon. številne restavracije.

Toda velika večina burgerjev, ki jih uživajo v Franciji - 70% - je daleč od hitre hrane. Jedli so jih sedeli za mizo s (pogosto) kozarcem vina v »ustrezni« restavraciji. Kar pa ne pomeni, da dom visoke kuhinje ni padel na hitro hrano: je. Francoske prehranjevalne navade se spreminjajo.

Vse večji časovni pritisk (po eni raziskavi si povprečni francoski delavec zdaj ne privošči 31-minutnega odmora) in pojav storitev dostave na dom, kot sta Deliveroo in UberEats, sta zaznamovala sektor hitre prehrane v državi eksponentno razširiti.

Francoskih 32.000 prodajaln s hitro prehrano je lani prodalo približno 51 milijard EUR-6% več kot leta 2016, 13% več kot pred štirimi leti in skoraj trikrat več kot leta 2005. Še več, zdaj predstavljajo 60% celotne Francoska restavracija.

Hitra hrana "ne pomeni nujno, da ne jeste dobro," je dejala Josiane Bouvier, učiteljica geografije, ki je prišla iz Nousa, ekološke priprave na rue du Châteaudun, z "francosko glasbo" iz piščanca na žaru, jogurta iz mete omaka, sezonska solata in polnozrnati riž. "Mislim, da se mnogi Francozi, ki hodijo celo v lokale s hitro prehrano, zelo zavedajo kakovosti sestavin in tega, ali se jedi res pripravljajo v prostorih," je dejala. "Ampak to je, če si lahko za kosilo privoščite devet, 10 ali 12 evrov."

In tu je stvar. Dobra hrana v Franciji ni več poceni - v restavracijah ali doma. Državna podjetja za predelavo in distribucijo hrane so velika in močna. Nacionalna agencija za prehrano Anses pravi, da francoske prehranjevalne navade niso več vzor: zdaj vključuje vedno več visoko predelanih živil, preveč soli in premalo vlaknin.

Kljub vsemu posebnemu odnosu do hrane Francija še zdaleč ni imuna na la malbouffe. Poslanci so prejšnji teden poročali, da bo kar 30 milijonov Francozov, predvsem v gospodinjstvih z nižjimi dohodki, do leta 2030 debelo ali prekomerno telesno težo, razen če velika živilska podjetja razrežejo sol, sladkor, maščobe in druge dodatke, otroci pa se izobražujejo za bolj zdravo prehrano.

"Francoske družine porabijo manj denarja in manj časa za hrano kot kdaj koli prej," je dejal en poslanec Loïc Prud'homme. "Moramo prevzeti nadzor nad tablicami."

Druga, Michèle Crouzet, ki se je zavzela za manj soli v hrani, je bila bolj ostra. Francozi "ne umirajo od preveč hrane," je dejala, "vendar nas hrana, ki jo zaužijemo, postopoma ubija."


Od eskargotov do le Big Maca: kako je dežela visoke kuhinje padla na hitro hrano

Francoska hrana: tako dobra, da so jo modre glave pri Unescu razglasile za del svetovne nesnovne kulturne dediščine, tako slavljene, da je ljubezen do nje opredelila narod.

"Povej mi, kaj ješ, in povedal ti bom, kaj si," kot je prvotni ljubitelj hrane, gastronom Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, zapisal leta 1825. In bil je nekdo, ki je nedvomno poznal njegovo lečo vertes du puy et kaviar langoustines à la nage in njegov poulette du perche iz njegovega poitrine de grive.

Francoske prehranjevalne navade - in ne le v restavracijah - so bile že leta vzor: obrok kontrolira veliko osnov (jajca, maslo, kruh, krompir), malo predelane ali hitre hrane, veliko rib, sadja, rastlinskih olj in (seveda) polnomastni mlečni, strukturirani, družabni obroki, osredotočeni na družino. Konec koncev se Francozinje ne zredijo.

Zakaj je torej prejšnji teden novo poročilo nakazovalo, da bi lahko bilo do leta 2030 30 milijonov ljudi - skoraj polovica prebivalstva države - debelih? In zakaj na sončnem kosilu v začetku jeseni je vrsta pred McDonald'som-ena od 1.440 v Franciji, drugi največji svetovni trg verige-na Boulevard des Italiens v središču Pariza?

"Ne morem verjeti, da to sprašujete," je rekla Stephane Loiseau, 29-letna skrbnica računa, ki je prisluhnila njegovemu naročilu-"un CBO”(Piščanec, slanina, čebula) s krompirčkom - na zaslon na dotik. "To je takšen klišej. So poceni, hitri so in uporabljajo zelo dobre sestavine. Zakaj bi bili Francozi drugačni od preostalega sveta? "

Enako je zaničevala tudi Natalie Girardot, prodajna pomočnica v bližnji zlatarni. "Ali veste, da uporabljajo v celoti francoske sestavine?" je rekla in pokazala na pladenj. »Poglej: goveje meso Charolais, sir fourme d’Ambert na vrhu. Plus ustrezen vinaigrette. Francija obožuje McDonald's. Vedno je uspelo. "

To ni povsem res. Naslednje leto je pred dvajsetimi leti kmet z ovcami, brkatimi brki, imenovanim José Bové, s skupino manjših lastnikov in nekdanjih hipij razstavil napol zgrajen McDonald's v Millauu na jugu Francije in začel nacionalni križarski pohod proti la malbouffe - hitra hrana.

Toda zdaj ima Francija rad hamburgerje: raziskava, ki jo je v začetku tega leta objavila svetovalna družba Gira Conseil, je pokazala, da je 66 milijonov ljudi v državi v letu 2017 zaužilo 1,46 milijarde, kar je skoraj 10% več kot prejšnje leto. Morda še bolj presenetljivo, da so hamburgerji zdaj na meniju 85% francoskih restavracij. Ne da bi jih poklicali malbouffe. V L'Artisan du Burgerju na ulici Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière so hamburgerji s sestavinami, vključno z rukolo, limetino lupino, sirom reblochon, kompotom iz rdeče čebule in prekajeno začimbno omako, stali 12 evrov (več, če jih želite v pecivu iz lignjevega črnila, polnjenem z semena nigelle ali črne kumine).

"Zdaj so del naše nacionalne kuhinje," je dejala Sara Vérier, bančna delavka in pogosta obiskovalka restavracij. »Skoraj vsak kraj - tudi nekateri res zelo pametni - naredi vsaj enega. Dobiš lepe francoske pridihe: klinček foie gras, roquefort. Včasih celo tartufi. "

Bernard Boutboul, generalni direktor Gira Conseil, opisuje navidezno neustavljiv vzpon burgerja v Franciji kot "evforijo, norost", ki je zdaj začela mejiti na "histerijo", pri čemer so elegantni burgerji prodajali francoske bistroje, kot sta račja prsa in boeuf bourguignon. številne restavracije.

Toda velika večina burgerjev, ki jih uživajo v Franciji - 70% - je daleč od hitre hrane. Jedli so jih sedeli za mizo s (pogosto) kozarcem vina v »ustrezni« restavraciji. Kar pa ne pomeni, da dom visoke kuhinje ni padel na hitro hrano: je. Francoske prehranjevalne navade se spreminjajo.

Vse večji časovni pritisk (po eni raziskavi si povprečni francoski delavec zdaj ne privošči 31-minutnega odmora) in pojav storitev dostave na dom, kot sta Deliveroo in UberEats, sta zaznamovala sektor hitre prehrane v državi eksponentno razširiti.

Francoskih 32.000 prodajaln s hitro prehrano je lani prodalo približno 51 milijard EUR-6% več kot leta 2016, 13% več kot pred štirimi leti in skoraj trikrat več kot leta 2005. Še več, zdaj predstavljajo 60% celotne Francoska restavracija.

Hitra hrana "ne pomeni nujno, da ne jeste dobro," je dejala Josiane Bouvier, učiteljica geografije, ki je prišla iz Nousa, ekološke priprave na rue du Châteaudun, z "francosko glasbo" iz piščanca na žaru, jogurta iz mete omaka, sezonska solata in polnozrnati riž. "Mislim, da se mnogi Francozi, ki hodijo celo v lokale s hitro prehrano, zavedajo kakovosti sestavin in tega, ali jedi v resnici pripravljajo v prostorih," je dejala. "Ampak to je, če si lahko za kosilo privoščite devet, 10 ali 12 evrov."

In tu je stvar. Dobra hrana v Franciji ni več poceni - v restavracijah ali doma. Državna podjetja za predelavo in distribucijo hrane so velika in močna. Nacionalna agencija za prehrano Anses pravi, da francoske prehranjevalne navade niso več vzor: zdaj vključuje vedno več visoko predelanih živil, preveč soli in premalo vlaknin.

Kljub vsemu posebnemu odnosu do hrane Francija še zdaleč ni imuna na la malbouffe. Poslanci so prejšnji teden poročali, da bo kar 30 milijonov Francozov, predvsem v gospodinjstvih z nižjimi dohodki, do leta 2030 debelo ali prekomerno telesno težo, razen če velika živilska podjetja razrežejo sol, sladkor, maščobe in druge dodatke, otroci pa se izobražujejo za bolj zdravo prehrano.

"Francoske družine porabijo manj denarja in manj časa za hrano kot kdaj koli prej," je dejal en poslanec Loïc Prud'homme. "Moramo prevzeti nadzor nad tablicami."

Druga, Michèle Crouzet, ki se je zavzela za manj soli v hrani, je bila bolj ostra. Francozi "ne umirajo od preveč hrane," je dejala, "vendar nas hrana, ki jo zaužijemo, postopoma ubija."


Od eskargotov do le Big Maca: kako je dežela visoke kuhinje padla na hitro hrano

Francoska hrana: tako dobra, da so jo modre glave pri Unescu razglasile za del svetovne nesnovne kulturne dediščine, tako slavile, da je ljubezen do nje opredelila narod.

"Povej mi, kaj ješ, in povedal ti bom, kaj si," kot je prvotni ljubitelj hrane, gastronom Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, zapisal leta 1825. In bil je nekdo, ki je nedvomno poznal njegovo lečo vertes du puy et kaviar langoustines à la nage in njegov poulette du perche iz njegovega poitrine de grive.

Francoske prehranjevalne navade - in ne le v restavracijah - so bile že leta vzor: obrok kontrolira veliko osnov (jajca, maslo, kruh, krompir), malo predelane ali hitre hrane, veliko rib, sadja, rastlinskih olj in (seveda) polnomastni mlečni, strukturirani, družabni obroki, osredotočeni na družino. Konec koncev se Francozinje ne zredijo.

Zakaj je torej prejšnji teden novo poročilo nakazovalo, da bi lahko bilo do leta 2030 30 milijonov ljudi - skoraj polovica prebivalstva države - debelih? In kako to, da je v sončnem času za kosilo v začetku jeseni vrsta pred McDonald'som-enim od 1440 v Franciji, drugem največjem svetovnem trgu verige-na Boulevard des Italiens v središču Pariza?

"Ne morem verjeti, da to sprašujete," je rekla Stephane Loiseau, 29-letna skrbnica računa, ki je prisluhnila njegovemu naročilu-"un CBO”(Piščanec, slanina, čebula) s krompirčkom - na zaslon na dotik. "To je takšen klišej. So poceni, hitri so in uporabljajo zelo dobre sestavine. Zakaj bi bili Francozi drugačni od preostalega sveta? "

Enako je zaničevala tudi Natalie Girardot, prodajna pomočnica v bližnji zlatarni. "Ali veste, da uporabljajo vse francoske sestavine?" je rekla in pokazala na pladenj. »Poglej: goveje meso Charolais, sir fourme d’Ambert na vrhu. Plus ustrezen vinaigrette. Francija obožuje McDonald's. Vedno je uspelo. "

To ni povsem res. Naslednje leto je pred dvajsetimi leti kmet z ovcami, brkatimi brki, imenovanim José Bové, s skupino manjših lastnikov in nekdanjih hipij razstavil napol zgrajen McDonald's v Millauu na jugu Francije in začel nacionalni križarski pohod proti la malbouffe - hitra hrana.

Toda zdaj ima Francija rad hamburgerje: raziskava, ki jo je v začetku tega leta objavila svetovalna družba Gira Conseil, je pokazala, da je 66 milijonov ljudi v državi v letu 2017 zaužilo 1,46 milijarde, kar je skoraj 10% več kot prejšnje leto. Morda še bolj presenetljivo, da so hamburgerji zdaj na meniju 85% francoskih restavracij. Ne da bi jih poklicali malbouffe. V L'Artisan du Burgerju na ulici Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière so hamburgerji s sestavinami, vključno z rukolo, limetino lupino, sirom reblochon, kompotom iz rdeče čebule in prekajeno začimbno omako, stali 12 evrov (več, če jih želite v pecivu iz lignjevega črnila, polnjenem z semena nigelle ali črne kumine).

"Zdaj so del naše nacionalne kuhinje," je dejala Sara Vérier, bančna delavka in pogosta obiskovalka restavracij. »Skoraj vsak kraj - tudi nekateri res zelo pametni - naredi vsaj enega. Dobiš lepe francoske pridihe: klin foie gras, roquefort. Včasih celo tartufi. "

Bernard Boutboul, generalni direktor Gira Conseil, opisuje navidezno neustavljiv vzpon burgerja v Franciji kot "evforijo, norost", ki je zdaj začela mejiti na "histerijo", pri čemer so elegantni burgerji prodajali francoske bistroje, kot sta račja prsa in boeuf bourguignon številne restavracije.

Toda velika večina burgerjev, ki jih uživajo v Franciji - 70% - je daleč od hitre hrane. Jedli so jih sedeli za mizo s (pogosto) kozarcem vina v »ustrezni« restavraciji. Kar pa ne pomeni, da dom visoke kuhinje ni padel na hitro hrano: je. Francoske prehranjevalne navade se spreminjajo.

Increasing time pressure (no more two-hour lunches the average French worker now takes a 31-minute break at midday, according to one survey) and the emergence of home-delivery services such as Deliveroo and UberEats have seen the country’s fast-food sector expand exponentially.

France’s 32,000 fast-food outlets booked sales of about €51bn last year – 6% more than in 2016, 13% up on four years ago, and almost three times the figure in 2005. What’s more, they now represent 60% of the entire French restaurant business.

Fast food “doesn’t necessarily mean you don’t eat well,” said Josiane Bouvier, a geography teacher, emerging from Nous, an organic takeaway on rue du Châteaudun, with an unFrench-sounding “hotbox” of grilled chicken, mint yoghurt sauce, seasonal salad and wholegrain rice. “I think many French people who go even to fast-food places are very conscious of the quality of ingredients, and whether dishes are really made on the premises,” she said. “But that’s if you can afford nine, 10 or 12 euros for lunch out.”

And there’s the thing. Good food is no longer cheap in France – in restaurants or at home. The country’s food processing and distribution firms are big and powerful. French eating habits, the national food agency Anses says, are no longer a model: now it involves more and more highly processed foods, too much salt, and not enough fibre.

For all its particular relationship to food, France is far from immune to la malbouffe. MPs reported last week that as many as 30 million French people, mainly in lower-income households, will be obese or overweight by 2030 unless big food firms slash salt, sugar, fat and other additives and children are educated to eat more healthily.

“French families spend less money and less time on their food than ever before,” said one MP, Loïc Prud’homme. “We need to take back control of our plates.”

Another, Michèle Crouzet, who has campaigned for less salt in food, was blunter. The French “are not dying of too much food,” she said, “but little by little, the food we eat is killing us.”


From escargots to le Big Mac: how the land of haute cuisine fell for fast food

French food: so good that the wise heads at Unesco declared it part of the world’s intangible cultural heritage, so celebrated that the love of it defined a nation.

“Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are,” as the original foodie, the gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, put it in 1825. And he was somebody who undoubtedly knew his lentilles vertes du puy et caviar from his langoustines à la nage and his poulette du perche from his poitrine de grive.

For years, France’s eating habits – and not just in restaurants – have been a model: portion control lots of basics (eggs, butter, bread, potatoes) little processed or fast foods plenty of fish, fruit, vegetable oils and (of course) full-fat dairy structured, convivial, family-centred meals. French women, after all, do not get fat.

So why, last week, did a new report suggest that 30 million people – nearly half the country’s population – could be obese by 2030? And how come, on a sunny lunchtime in early autumn, there is a queue outside McDonald’s – one of 1,440 in France, the chain’s second-biggest global market – on the Boulevard des Italiens in central Paris?

“I can’t believe you’re asking this,” said Stephane Loiseau, a 29-year-old account manager tapping his order – “un CBO” (chicken, bacon, onion) with fries – into the touchscreen. “It’s such a cliché. They’re cheap, they’re fast, they use pretty OK ingredients. Why should the French be any different from the rest of the world?”

Natalie Girardot, a sales assistant at a nearby jeweller’s store, was equally dismissive. “You know they use all-French ingredients?” she said, pointing at her tray. “Look: Charolais beef, fourme d’Ambert cheese on the top. Plus a proper vinaigrette. France loves McDonald’s. It always has done.”

That’s not strictly true. Twenty years ago next year, a pipe-smoking, mustachioed sheep farmer called José Bové famously dismantled a half-built McDonald’s at Millau in southern France with a group of fellow smallholders and ex-hippies, launching a national crusade against la malbouffe – junk food.

But now France loves burgers: a survey published earlier this year by consultancy Gira Conseil showed the country’s 66 million people consumed 1.46 billion of them in 2017 – nearly 10% more than the previous year. Perhaps more remarkably, burgers now feature on the menus of 85% of French restaurants. Not that you’d call them malbouffe. At L’Artisan du Burger on rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, burgers with ingredients including rocket, lime zest, reblochon cheese, compote of red onions and a smoked spice sauce cost €12 (more if you want them in a squid-ink bun topped with nigella or black cumin seeds).

“They’re part of our national cuisine now,” said Sara Vérier, a bank worker and frequent restaurant-goer. “Almost every place – even some really quite smart ones – does at least one. You get nice French touches: a wedge of foie gras, roquefort. Sometimes even truffles.”

Bernard Boutboul, Gira Conseil’s managing director, describes the burger’s seemingly unstoppable rise in France as “a euphoria, a craze” that has now started to verge on “hysteria”, with posh burgers outselling French bistro classics such as duck breast and boeuf bourguignon in many restaurants.

Yet the vast majority of burgers consumed in France – 70% – are far from fast food. They are eaten sitting at a table, with (often) a glass of wine, in a “proper” restaurant. Which does not mean the home of haute cuisine has not fallen for fast food: it has. French eating habits are changing.

Increasing time pressure (no more two-hour lunches the average French worker now takes a 31-minute break at midday, according to one survey) and the emergence of home-delivery services such as Deliveroo and UberEats have seen the country’s fast-food sector expand exponentially.

France’s 32,000 fast-food outlets booked sales of about €51bn last year – 6% more than in 2016, 13% up on four years ago, and almost three times the figure in 2005. What’s more, they now represent 60% of the entire French restaurant business.

Fast food “doesn’t necessarily mean you don’t eat well,” said Josiane Bouvier, a geography teacher, emerging from Nous, an organic takeaway on rue du Châteaudun, with an unFrench-sounding “hotbox” of grilled chicken, mint yoghurt sauce, seasonal salad and wholegrain rice. “I think many French people who go even to fast-food places are very conscious of the quality of ingredients, and whether dishes are really made on the premises,” she said. “But that’s if you can afford nine, 10 or 12 euros for lunch out.”

And there’s the thing. Good food is no longer cheap in France – in restaurants or at home. The country’s food processing and distribution firms are big and powerful. French eating habits, the national food agency Anses says, are no longer a model: now it involves more and more highly processed foods, too much salt, and not enough fibre.

For all its particular relationship to food, France is far from immune to la malbouffe. MPs reported last week that as many as 30 million French people, mainly in lower-income households, will be obese or overweight by 2030 unless big food firms slash salt, sugar, fat and other additives and children are educated to eat more healthily.

“French families spend less money and less time on their food than ever before,” said one MP, Loïc Prud’homme. “We need to take back control of our plates.”

Another, Michèle Crouzet, who has campaigned for less salt in food, was blunter. The French “are not dying of too much food,” she said, “but little by little, the food we eat is killing us.”


From escargots to le Big Mac: how the land of haute cuisine fell for fast food

French food: so good that the wise heads at Unesco declared it part of the world’s intangible cultural heritage, so celebrated that the love of it defined a nation.

“Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are,” as the original foodie, the gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, put it in 1825. And he was somebody who undoubtedly knew his lentilles vertes du puy et caviar from his langoustines à la nage and his poulette du perche from his poitrine de grive.

For years, France’s eating habits – and not just in restaurants – have been a model: portion control lots of basics (eggs, butter, bread, potatoes) little processed or fast foods plenty of fish, fruit, vegetable oils and (of course) full-fat dairy structured, convivial, family-centred meals. French women, after all, do not get fat.

So why, last week, did a new report suggest that 30 million people – nearly half the country’s population – could be obese by 2030? And how come, on a sunny lunchtime in early autumn, there is a queue outside McDonald’s – one of 1,440 in France, the chain’s second-biggest global market – on the Boulevard des Italiens in central Paris?

“I can’t believe you’re asking this,” said Stephane Loiseau, a 29-year-old account manager tapping his order – “un CBO” (chicken, bacon, onion) with fries – into the touchscreen. “It’s such a cliché. They’re cheap, they’re fast, they use pretty OK ingredients. Why should the French be any different from the rest of the world?”

Natalie Girardot, a sales assistant at a nearby jeweller’s store, was equally dismissive. “You know they use all-French ingredients?” she said, pointing at her tray. “Look: Charolais beef, fourme d’Ambert cheese on the top. Plus a proper vinaigrette. France loves McDonald’s. It always has done.”

That’s not strictly true. Twenty years ago next year, a pipe-smoking, mustachioed sheep farmer called José Bové famously dismantled a half-built McDonald’s at Millau in southern France with a group of fellow smallholders and ex-hippies, launching a national crusade against la malbouffe – junk food.

But now France loves burgers: a survey published earlier this year by consultancy Gira Conseil showed the country’s 66 million people consumed 1.46 billion of them in 2017 – nearly 10% more than the previous year. Perhaps more remarkably, burgers now feature on the menus of 85% of French restaurants. Not that you’d call them malbouffe. At L’Artisan du Burger on rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, burgers with ingredients including rocket, lime zest, reblochon cheese, compote of red onions and a smoked spice sauce cost €12 (more if you want them in a squid-ink bun topped with nigella or black cumin seeds).

“They’re part of our national cuisine now,” said Sara Vérier, a bank worker and frequent restaurant-goer. “Almost every place – even some really quite smart ones – does at least one. You get nice French touches: a wedge of foie gras, roquefort. Sometimes even truffles.”

Bernard Boutboul, Gira Conseil’s managing director, describes the burger’s seemingly unstoppable rise in France as “a euphoria, a craze” that has now started to verge on “hysteria”, with posh burgers outselling French bistro classics such as duck breast and boeuf bourguignon in many restaurants.

Yet the vast majority of burgers consumed in France – 70% – are far from fast food. They are eaten sitting at a table, with (often) a glass of wine, in a “proper” restaurant. Which does not mean the home of haute cuisine has not fallen for fast food: it has. French eating habits are changing.

Increasing time pressure (no more two-hour lunches the average French worker now takes a 31-minute break at midday, according to one survey) and the emergence of home-delivery services such as Deliveroo and UberEats have seen the country’s fast-food sector expand exponentially.

France’s 32,000 fast-food outlets booked sales of about €51bn last year – 6% more than in 2016, 13% up on four years ago, and almost three times the figure in 2005. What’s more, they now represent 60% of the entire French restaurant business.

Fast food “doesn’t necessarily mean you don’t eat well,” said Josiane Bouvier, a geography teacher, emerging from Nous, an organic takeaway on rue du Châteaudun, with an unFrench-sounding “hotbox” of grilled chicken, mint yoghurt sauce, seasonal salad and wholegrain rice. “I think many French people who go even to fast-food places are very conscious of the quality of ingredients, and whether dishes are really made on the premises,” she said. “But that’s if you can afford nine, 10 or 12 euros for lunch out.”

And there’s the thing. Good food is no longer cheap in France – in restaurants or at home. The country’s food processing and distribution firms are big and powerful. French eating habits, the national food agency Anses says, are no longer a model: now it involves more and more highly processed foods, too much salt, and not enough fibre.

For all its particular relationship to food, France is far from immune to la malbouffe. MPs reported last week that as many as 30 million French people, mainly in lower-income households, will be obese or overweight by 2030 unless big food firms slash salt, sugar, fat and other additives and children are educated to eat more healthily.

“French families spend less money and less time on their food than ever before,” said one MP, Loïc Prud’homme. “We need to take back control of our plates.”

Another, Michèle Crouzet, who has campaigned for less salt in food, was blunter. The French “are not dying of too much food,” she said, “but little by little, the food we eat is killing us.”


From escargots to le Big Mac: how the land of haute cuisine fell for fast food

French food: so good that the wise heads at Unesco declared it part of the world’s intangible cultural heritage, so celebrated that the love of it defined a nation.

“Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are,” as the original foodie, the gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, put it in 1825. And he was somebody who undoubtedly knew his lentilles vertes du puy et caviar from his langoustines à la nage and his poulette du perche from his poitrine de grive.

For years, France’s eating habits – and not just in restaurants – have been a model: portion control lots of basics (eggs, butter, bread, potatoes) little processed or fast foods plenty of fish, fruit, vegetable oils and (of course) full-fat dairy structured, convivial, family-centred meals. French women, after all, do not get fat.

So why, last week, did a new report suggest that 30 million people – nearly half the country’s population – could be obese by 2030? And how come, on a sunny lunchtime in early autumn, there is a queue outside McDonald’s – one of 1,440 in France, the chain’s second-biggest global market – on the Boulevard des Italiens in central Paris?

“I can’t believe you’re asking this,” said Stephane Loiseau, a 29-year-old account manager tapping his order – “un CBO” (chicken, bacon, onion) with fries – into the touchscreen. “It’s such a cliché. They’re cheap, they’re fast, they use pretty OK ingredients. Why should the French be any different from the rest of the world?”

Natalie Girardot, a sales assistant at a nearby jeweller’s store, was equally dismissive. “You know they use all-French ingredients?” she said, pointing at her tray. “Look: Charolais beef, fourme d’Ambert cheese on the top. Plus a proper vinaigrette. France loves McDonald’s. It always has done.”

That’s not strictly true. Twenty years ago next year, a pipe-smoking, mustachioed sheep farmer called José Bové famously dismantled a half-built McDonald’s at Millau in southern France with a group of fellow smallholders and ex-hippies, launching a national crusade against la malbouffe – junk food.

But now France loves burgers: a survey published earlier this year by consultancy Gira Conseil showed the country’s 66 million people consumed 1.46 billion of them in 2017 – nearly 10% more than the previous year. Perhaps more remarkably, burgers now feature on the menus of 85% of French restaurants. Not that you’d call them malbouffe. At L’Artisan du Burger on rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, burgers with ingredients including rocket, lime zest, reblochon cheese, compote of red onions and a smoked spice sauce cost €12 (more if you want them in a squid-ink bun topped with nigella or black cumin seeds).

“They’re part of our national cuisine now,” said Sara Vérier, a bank worker and frequent restaurant-goer. “Almost every place – even some really quite smart ones – does at least one. You get nice French touches: a wedge of foie gras, roquefort. Sometimes even truffles.”

Bernard Boutboul, Gira Conseil’s managing director, describes the burger’s seemingly unstoppable rise in France as “a euphoria, a craze” that has now started to verge on “hysteria”, with posh burgers outselling French bistro classics such as duck breast and boeuf bourguignon in many restaurants.

Yet the vast majority of burgers consumed in France – 70% – are far from fast food. They are eaten sitting at a table, with (often) a glass of wine, in a “proper” restaurant. Which does not mean the home of haute cuisine has not fallen for fast food: it has. French eating habits are changing.

Increasing time pressure (no more two-hour lunches the average French worker now takes a 31-minute break at midday, according to one survey) and the emergence of home-delivery services such as Deliveroo and UberEats have seen the country’s fast-food sector expand exponentially.

France’s 32,000 fast-food outlets booked sales of about €51bn last year – 6% more than in 2016, 13% up on four years ago, and almost three times the figure in 2005. What’s more, they now represent 60% of the entire French restaurant business.

Fast food “doesn’t necessarily mean you don’t eat well,” said Josiane Bouvier, a geography teacher, emerging from Nous, an organic takeaway on rue du Châteaudun, with an unFrench-sounding “hotbox” of grilled chicken, mint yoghurt sauce, seasonal salad and wholegrain rice. “I think many French people who go even to fast-food places are very conscious of the quality of ingredients, and whether dishes are really made on the premises,” she said. “But that’s if you can afford nine, 10 or 12 euros for lunch out.”

And there’s the thing. Good food is no longer cheap in France – in restaurants or at home. The country’s food processing and distribution firms are big and powerful. French eating habits, the national food agency Anses says, are no longer a model: now it involves more and more highly processed foods, too much salt, and not enough fibre.

For all its particular relationship to food, France is far from immune to la malbouffe. MPs reported last week that as many as 30 million French people, mainly in lower-income households, will be obese or overweight by 2030 unless big food firms slash salt, sugar, fat and other additives and children are educated to eat more healthily.

“French families spend less money and less time on their food than ever before,” said one MP, Loïc Prud’homme. “We need to take back control of our plates.”

Another, Michèle Crouzet, who has campaigned for less salt in food, was blunter. The French “are not dying of too much food,” she said, “but little by little, the food we eat is killing us.”


From escargots to le Big Mac: how the land of haute cuisine fell for fast food

French food: so good that the wise heads at Unesco declared it part of the world’s intangible cultural heritage, so celebrated that the love of it defined a nation.

“Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are,” as the original foodie, the gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, put it in 1825. And he was somebody who undoubtedly knew his lentilles vertes du puy et caviar from his langoustines à la nage and his poulette du perche from his poitrine de grive.

For years, France’s eating habits – and not just in restaurants – have been a model: portion control lots of basics (eggs, butter, bread, potatoes) little processed or fast foods plenty of fish, fruit, vegetable oils and (of course) full-fat dairy structured, convivial, family-centred meals. French women, after all, do not get fat.

So why, last week, did a new report suggest that 30 million people – nearly half the country’s population – could be obese by 2030? And how come, on a sunny lunchtime in early autumn, there is a queue outside McDonald’s – one of 1,440 in France, the chain’s second-biggest global market – on the Boulevard des Italiens in central Paris?

“I can’t believe you’re asking this,” said Stephane Loiseau, a 29-year-old account manager tapping his order – “un CBO” (chicken, bacon, onion) with fries – into the touchscreen. “It’s such a cliché. They’re cheap, they’re fast, they use pretty OK ingredients. Why should the French be any different from the rest of the world?”

Natalie Girardot, a sales assistant at a nearby jeweller’s store, was equally dismissive. “You know they use all-French ingredients?” she said, pointing at her tray. “Look: Charolais beef, fourme d’Ambert cheese on the top. Plus a proper vinaigrette. France loves McDonald’s. It always has done.”

That’s not strictly true. Twenty years ago next year, a pipe-smoking, mustachioed sheep farmer called José Bové famously dismantled a half-built McDonald’s at Millau in southern France with a group of fellow smallholders and ex-hippies, launching a national crusade against la malbouffe – junk food.

But now France loves burgers: a survey published earlier this year by consultancy Gira Conseil showed the country’s 66 million people consumed 1.46 billion of them in 2017 – nearly 10% more than the previous year. Perhaps more remarkably, burgers now feature on the menus of 85% of French restaurants. Not that you’d call them malbouffe. At L’Artisan du Burger on rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, burgers with ingredients including rocket, lime zest, reblochon cheese, compote of red onions and a smoked spice sauce cost €12 (more if you want them in a squid-ink bun topped with nigella or black cumin seeds).

“They’re part of our national cuisine now,” said Sara Vérier, a bank worker and frequent restaurant-goer. “Almost every place – even some really quite smart ones – does at least one. You get nice French touches: a wedge of foie gras, roquefort. Sometimes even truffles.”

Bernard Boutboul, Gira Conseil’s managing director, describes the burger’s seemingly unstoppable rise in France as “a euphoria, a craze” that has now started to verge on “hysteria”, with posh burgers outselling French bistro classics such as duck breast and boeuf bourguignon in many restaurants.

Yet the vast majority of burgers consumed in France – 70% – are far from fast food. They are eaten sitting at a table, with (often) a glass of wine, in a “proper” restaurant. Which does not mean the home of haute cuisine has not fallen for fast food: it has. French eating habits are changing.

Increasing time pressure (no more two-hour lunches the average French worker now takes a 31-minute break at midday, according to one survey) and the emergence of home-delivery services such as Deliveroo and UberEats have seen the country’s fast-food sector expand exponentially.

France’s 32,000 fast-food outlets booked sales of about €51bn last year – 6% more than in 2016, 13% up on four years ago, and almost three times the figure in 2005. What’s more, they now represent 60% of the entire French restaurant business.

Fast food “doesn’t necessarily mean you don’t eat well,” said Josiane Bouvier, a geography teacher, emerging from Nous, an organic takeaway on rue du Châteaudun, with an unFrench-sounding “hotbox” of grilled chicken, mint yoghurt sauce, seasonal salad and wholegrain rice. “I think many French people who go even to fast-food places are very conscious of the quality of ingredients, and whether dishes are really made on the premises,” she said. “But that’s if you can afford nine, 10 or 12 euros for lunch out.”

And there’s the thing. Good food is no longer cheap in France – in restaurants or at home. The country’s food processing and distribution firms are big and powerful. French eating habits, the national food agency Anses says, are no longer a model: now it involves more and more highly processed foods, too much salt, and not enough fibre.

For all its particular relationship to food, France is far from immune to la malbouffe. MPs reported last week that as many as 30 million French people, mainly in lower-income households, will be obese or overweight by 2030 unless big food firms slash salt, sugar, fat and other additives and children are educated to eat more healthily.

“French families spend less money and less time on their food than ever before,” said one MP, Loïc Prud’homme. “We need to take back control of our plates.”

Another, Michèle Crouzet, who has campaigned for less salt in food, was blunter. The French “are not dying of too much food,” she said, “but little by little, the food we eat is killing us.”


From escargots to le Big Mac: how the land of haute cuisine fell for fast food

French food: so good that the wise heads at Unesco declared it part of the world’s intangible cultural heritage, so celebrated that the love of it defined a nation.

“Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are,” as the original foodie, the gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, put it in 1825. And he was somebody who undoubtedly knew his lentilles vertes du puy et caviar from his langoustines à la nage and his poulette du perche from his poitrine de grive.

For years, France’s eating habits – and not just in restaurants – have been a model: portion control lots of basics (eggs, butter, bread, potatoes) little processed or fast foods plenty of fish, fruit, vegetable oils and (of course) full-fat dairy structured, convivial, family-centred meals. French women, after all, do not get fat.

So why, last week, did a new report suggest that 30 million people – nearly half the country’s population – could be obese by 2030? And how come, on a sunny lunchtime in early autumn, there is a queue outside McDonald’s – one of 1,440 in France, the chain’s second-biggest global market – on the Boulevard des Italiens in central Paris?

“I can’t believe you’re asking this,” said Stephane Loiseau, a 29-year-old account manager tapping his order – “un CBO” (chicken, bacon, onion) with fries – into the touchscreen. “It’s such a cliché. They’re cheap, they’re fast, they use pretty OK ingredients. Why should the French be any different from the rest of the world?”

Natalie Girardot, a sales assistant at a nearby jeweller’s store, was equally dismissive. “You know they use all-French ingredients?” she said, pointing at her tray. “Look: Charolais beef, fourme d’Ambert cheese on the top. Plus a proper vinaigrette. France loves McDonald’s. It always has done.”

That’s not strictly true. Twenty years ago next year, a pipe-smoking, mustachioed sheep farmer called José Bové famously dismantled a half-built McDonald’s at Millau in southern France with a group of fellow smallholders and ex-hippies, launching a national crusade against la malbouffe – junk food.

But now France loves burgers: a survey published earlier this year by consultancy Gira Conseil showed the country’s 66 million people consumed 1.46 billion of them in 2017 – nearly 10% more than the previous year. Perhaps more remarkably, burgers now feature on the menus of 85% of French restaurants. Not that you’d call them malbouffe. At L’Artisan du Burger on rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, burgers with ingredients including rocket, lime zest, reblochon cheese, compote of red onions and a smoked spice sauce cost €12 (more if you want them in a squid-ink bun topped with nigella or black cumin seeds).

“They’re part of our national cuisine now,” said Sara Vérier, a bank worker and frequent restaurant-goer. “Almost every place – even some really quite smart ones – does at least one. You get nice French touches: a wedge of foie gras, roquefort. Sometimes even truffles.”

Bernard Boutboul, Gira Conseil’s managing director, describes the burger’s seemingly unstoppable rise in France as “a euphoria, a craze” that has now started to verge on “hysteria”, with posh burgers outselling French bistro classics such as duck breast and boeuf bourguignon in many restaurants.

Yet the vast majority of burgers consumed in France – 70% – are far from fast food. They are eaten sitting at a table, with (often) a glass of wine, in a “proper” restaurant. Which does not mean the home of haute cuisine has not fallen for fast food: it has. French eating habits are changing.

Increasing time pressure (no more two-hour lunches the average French worker now takes a 31-minute break at midday, according to one survey) and the emergence of home-delivery services such as Deliveroo and UberEats have seen the country’s fast-food sector expand exponentially.

France’s 32,000 fast-food outlets booked sales of about €51bn last year – 6% more than in 2016, 13% up on four years ago, and almost three times the figure in 2005. What’s more, they now represent 60% of the entire French restaurant business.

Fast food “doesn’t necessarily mean you don’t eat well,” said Josiane Bouvier, a geography teacher, emerging from Nous, an organic takeaway on rue du Châteaudun, with an unFrench-sounding “hotbox” of grilled chicken, mint yoghurt sauce, seasonal salad and wholegrain rice. “I think many French people who go even to fast-food places are very conscious of the quality of ingredients, and whether dishes are really made on the premises,” she said. “But that’s if you can afford nine, 10 or 12 euros for lunch out.”

And there’s the thing. Good food is no longer cheap in France – in restaurants or at home. The country’s food processing and distribution firms are big and powerful. French eating habits, the national food agency Anses says, are no longer a model: now it involves more and more highly processed foods, too much salt, and not enough fibre.

For all its particular relationship to food, France is far from immune to la malbouffe. MPs reported last week that as many as 30 million French people, mainly in lower-income households, will be obese or overweight by 2030 unless big food firms slash salt, sugar, fat and other additives and children are educated to eat more healthily.

“French families spend less money and less time on their food than ever before,” said one MP, Loïc Prud’homme. “We need to take back control of our plates.”

Another, Michèle Crouzet, who has campaigned for less salt in food, was blunter. The French “are not dying of too much food,” she said, “but little by little, the food we eat is killing us.”


From escargots to le Big Mac: how the land of haute cuisine fell for fast food

French food: so good that the wise heads at Unesco declared it part of the world’s intangible cultural heritage, so celebrated that the love of it defined a nation.

“Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are,” as the original foodie, the gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, put it in 1825. And he was somebody who undoubtedly knew his lentilles vertes du puy et caviar from his langoustines à la nage and his poulette du perche from his poitrine de grive.

For years, France’s eating habits – and not just in restaurants – have been a model: portion control lots of basics (eggs, butter, bread, potatoes) little processed or fast foods plenty of fish, fruit, vegetable oils and (of course) full-fat dairy structured, convivial, family-centred meals. French women, after all, do not get fat.

So why, last week, did a new report suggest that 30 million people – nearly half the country’s population – could be obese by 2030? And how come, on a sunny lunchtime in early autumn, there is a queue outside McDonald’s – one of 1,440 in France, the chain’s second-biggest global market – on the Boulevard des Italiens in central Paris?

“I can’t believe you’re asking this,” said Stephane Loiseau, a 29-year-old account manager tapping his order – “un CBO” (chicken, bacon, onion) with fries – into the touchscreen. “It’s such a cliché. They’re cheap, they’re fast, they use pretty OK ingredients. Why should the French be any different from the rest of the world?”

Natalie Girardot, a sales assistant at a nearby jeweller’s store, was equally dismissive. “You know they use all-French ingredients?” she said, pointing at her tray. “Look: Charolais beef, fourme d’Ambert cheese on the top. Plus a proper vinaigrette. France loves McDonald’s. It always has done.”

That’s not strictly true. Twenty years ago next year, a pipe-smoking, mustachioed sheep farmer called José Bové famously dismantled a half-built McDonald’s at Millau in southern France with a group of fellow smallholders and ex-hippies, launching a national crusade against la malbouffe – junk food.

But now France loves burgers: a survey published earlier this year by consultancy Gira Conseil showed the country’s 66 million people consumed 1.46 billion of them in 2017 – nearly 10% more than the previous year. Perhaps more remarkably, burgers now feature on the menus of 85% of French restaurants. Not that you’d call them malbouffe. At L’Artisan du Burger on rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, burgers with ingredients including rocket, lime zest, reblochon cheese, compote of red onions and a smoked spice sauce cost €12 (more if you want them in a squid-ink bun topped with nigella or black cumin seeds).

“They’re part of our national cuisine now,” said Sara Vérier, a bank worker and frequent restaurant-goer. “Almost every place – even some really quite smart ones – does at least one. You get nice French touches: a wedge of foie gras, roquefort. Sometimes even truffles.”

Bernard Boutboul, Gira Conseil’s managing director, describes the burger’s seemingly unstoppable rise in France as “a euphoria, a craze” that has now started to verge on “hysteria”, with posh burgers outselling French bistro classics such as duck breast and boeuf bourguignon in many restaurants.

Yet the vast majority of burgers consumed in France – 70% – are far from fast food. They are eaten sitting at a table, with (often) a glass of wine, in a “proper” restaurant. Which does not mean the home of haute cuisine has not fallen for fast food: it has. French eating habits are changing.

Increasing time pressure (no more two-hour lunches the average French worker now takes a 31-minute break at midday, according to one survey) and the emergence of home-delivery services such as Deliveroo and UberEats have seen the country’s fast-food sector expand exponentially.

France’s 32,000 fast-food outlets booked sales of about €51bn last year – 6% more than in 2016, 13% up on four years ago, and almost three times the figure in 2005. What’s more, they now represent 60% of the entire French restaurant business.

Fast food “doesn’t necessarily mean you don’t eat well,” said Josiane Bouvier, a geography teacher, emerging from Nous, an organic takeaway on rue du Châteaudun, with an unFrench-sounding “hotbox” of grilled chicken, mint yoghurt sauce, seasonal salad and wholegrain rice. “I think many French people who go even to fast-food places are very conscious of the quality of ingredients, and whether dishes are really made on the premises,” she said. “But that’s if you can afford nine, 10 or 12 euros for lunch out.”

And there’s the thing. Good food is no longer cheap in France – in restaurants or at home. The country’s food processing and distribution firms are big and powerful. French eating habits, the national food agency Anses says, are no longer a model: now it involves more and more highly processed foods, too much salt, and not enough fibre.

For all its particular relationship to food, France is far from immune to la malbouffe. MPs reported last week that as many as 30 million French people, mainly in lower-income households, will be obese or overweight by 2030 unless big food firms slash salt, sugar, fat and other additives and children are educated to eat more healthily.

“French families spend less money and less time on their food than ever before,” said one MP, Loïc Prud’homme. “We need to take back control of our plates.”

Another, Michèle Crouzet, who has campaigned for less salt in food, was blunter. The French “are not dying of too much food,” she said, “but little by little, the food we eat is killing us.”


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