Novi recepti

Diaprojekcija Alain Ducasse's Kitchen Tools

Diaprojekcija Alain Ducasse's Kitchen Tools

Kuhar deli svojih 5 stvari, ki jih mora imeti v kuhinji

Maryse Spatula

Ta ukrivljena, prilagodljiva lopatica se uporablja predvsem pri peki, vendar se Ducasseu zdi uporabna v vsakem koraku kuhanja, pa naj gre le za prenos sestavin ali strganje omake iz sklede. "Lopatica Maryse, ki je nujna za slaščičarje in kuharje, je prilagodljiva in omogoča učinkovito odstranjevanje posod vseh oblik, kar omogoča, da se vsa vsebina prebije v recept," pravi.

Mešalna posoda z okroglim dnom:

Trdna mešalna posoda je pogoj za vsako kuhinjo (dobro založeno ali ne), vendar je različica iz nerjavečega jekla z okroglim dnom najbolj vsestranska. "Nerjaveče jeklo Cul-de-Poule (okroglo dno) mešalna posoda vam omogoča gladko mešanje hladnih sestavin ali celo kombiniranje izdelkov na štedilniku ali žaru, "pravi Ducasse. Tako lahko predhodno izmerite težko smetano za stepanje in jo vržete nazaj v hladilnik ali poskusite stopiti čokolado v njem z dvojnim kotlom.

Chinois

To stožčasto sito ima običajno bolj fino mrežico kot standardna sita, zaradi česar je kot nalašč za cedenje pirejev, juh in krem ​​za izjemno gladko teksturo. "To uporabljam za ločevanje trdnih snovi iz tekočin - na primer, da odstranim tudi najmanjše delce iz omak," pravi Ducasse. "To je tudi najboljše orodje za sejanje suhih sestavin skupaj."

Mandolina

Ja, mandolina je morda zastrašujoča, a poznate tiste popolne rezine krompirja in korenja, ki jih vedno najdete v restavracijah? Ne glede na to, kako dobre so vaše sposobnosti nožev, jih brez tega ne boste mogli izvleči. "Tudi najbolj usposobljeni kuharji uporabljajo ta rezalnik za natančnost pri rezanju pridelkov," pravi Ducasse.

Skimmer

Morda se vam zdi, da je pri juhah v kuhinji vse, kar potrebujete, velikanska žlica, a ko dobite posnetek, brez njega ne boste mogli kuhati. "To orodje uporabljam za odstranjevanje maščobe iz bujona, vendar mi pride prav, ko moram odstraniti blanširano sestavino, potopljeno v vodo," pravi Ducasse.


Bakerjeva bivša žena

Frédérick Grasser-Hermé naredi kardinalni jedilniški greh, še preden sploh zapusti kuhinjo: igra se s hrano. In verjetno se bo igrala z vašimi. Pleše po svoji pariški kuhinji in brenči po francoskih melodijah, medtem ko v omaki Coca-Cola piha tekočo torto, sir in piščanec.

"To," pojasnjuje v poskusu angleščine, "je pritok Manhattna."

S tem misli, da je ustvarila konstruktivistični poklon New Yorku, por in preste pa so se dvignili s krožnika, da bi simulirali obzorje Manhattna.

Frédérick E. Grasser-Hermé (Fegh to friends) je 60-letna igralka, katere brezmejno navdušenje ji je omogočilo, da je ustvarila več kot 20 kuharskih knjig, med drugim "La Cuisinière du Cuisinier" z Alainom Ducassejem. To kljub dejstvu, da ni prišla kuhati, dokler ji prijatelji, ki so privoščili hrano, niso predstavili odlične kuhinje, ko je bila 30-letna direktorica oglaševanja. Za svojo kariero je označila en sam obrok v restavraciji Alain Chapel v Mionnayu.

Na krožnik udarja žlico sira Babybel, jo potrese s soljo iz tartufov in vtakne v mikrovalovno pečico. Prihaja okusen prigrizek - ena od tistih stvari, ki jih jeste, nato pa doživite drugi val presenečenja, kako dobra je.

"Salonski triki," voha Jeffrey Steingarten, pisatelj hrane in dolgoletni prijatelj Grasser-Herméja. "Ko dva ali trikrat pojeste sir v mikrovalovni pečici, ni več tako zanimivo."

Kljub temu Steingarten meni, da je zelo dobra kuharica. »Ko je bila poročena« - s Pierrom Herméjem, morda najbolj cenjenim slaščičarjem na svetu, sta bila skupaj 14 let, njuna ločitev je bila sporazumna in pogosto se pogovarjata o poklicnih zadevah - »šla bi k njima na večerjo in vedno bo kuhala ona. Pripravljala je klasične jedi: jagnjetino z marelicami, svinjske trebuhe - hrustljave in okusne. In presenetljivo je, da ima boljše brbončice kot Pierre, čeprav ima on zelo dobro brbončico. Samo prehitro poje. " (Ne dolgo nazaj sta Grasser-Hermé in njen nekdanji mož z avtomobilom 15-urno romala v restavracijo Ferran Adrià El Bulli v španskem Rosesu. 10 ur sta jedla en tečaj za drugim, na koncu pa je bil Pierre še vedno lačen.)

Steingarten ni edini, ki občuduje kulinarične sposobnosti Grasser-Herméja. Njeni oboževalci segajo v svet umetnosti in oblikovanja, kjer cenijo njene nenavadne izmišljotine. Za nedavni sprejem po odprtju neorealistične razstave v Le Grand Palaisu je pripravila barvito melanžo dobrot: kobaltno modra ikra leteče ribe, ki je bila nakoščena na kostnem mozgu in grah ter naribano korenje, obešeno na kvadrat agarja -agar. Tudi njeno najnovejšo kuharsko knjigo »Serijske barve« (L'Ãpure Editions) je v lonec zapakiral sodobni oblikovalec Matali Crasset.

Grasser-Hermé ima vedno prste v različnih loncih, ko ne piše kolumn v revijah ali se posvetuje s hotelskimi in restavracijskimi kuharji, sanja o novih jedeh. (S Pierrom sta odprla kratkotrajno restavracijo Korova, v kateri so ji postregli s piščancem iz Coca-Cole in drugimi muhastimi jedmi.) Njena zadnja obsedenost je poleg želje po dekonstrukciji lončnice "Technicolor cooking", ki jo je raziskovala. v "Serijske barve". Poimenovala jo je "mavrica mojih sanj: koktajl iz belega medveda, pica s črnim tartufom, zvitek iz modrega jastoga, vijolično pire krompir s cassisom. . . .

"V naravi moramo najti pravo barvo, da bo hrana odražala naravno," je rekla.

Vsi ti trčeči pojmi izhajajo iz njenega stanovanja, zasnovanega v Crassetu, na Champs-Ãlyséesu. Poimenovana hiša Fegh Shui, je bolj podobna Disneyjevemu mestnemu središču. Naprave so prevelike in jih je mogoče upravljati z palčniki Mickey Mouse. Zdi se, da umetnina odleti s sten z nekakšno tridimenzionalno zadrgo. Njen polnočno modri vinilni kavč meji na kiparstvo.

»Počakaj! Počakaj! " Hoče narediti svojo tekočo torto. Ko se vrti in brne, nalije šampanjec v veliko posodo za mešanje, nato polije nekaj vodke in zajemal kepe v sladoledu, pireju iz pasijonke in maslenih piškotih. Vse skupaj premeša in rezino nalije v ogromen kozarec za martini. Je presenetljivo, da je tudi to čudovit izum?

Puntarella z zeleno anchoïado

1 ½ kilograma puntarelle (italijanska radiča) ali zelenjave regrata

16 filetov inčunov v olju, sperenih in posušenih

4 žličke dodatnega kisa

½ skodelice ekstra deviškega oljčnega olja

Sveže mleti črni poper

1. Odstranite nežne notranje liste puntarele in večje zelene liste razrežite na tretjine. Preostalo jedro drobno narežemo z mandolino. (Če uporabljate regratovo zelenico, odstranite in zavrzite stebla ter liste narežite na tretjine.) Sperite v hladni vodi, odcedite, zavijte v papirnate brisače in pustite v hladilniku 1 uro.

2. Sardono (orešček iz inčunov) pripravite tako, da v kuhinjskem stroju združite inčune, česen, oljke in kis. Pri delujočem motorju v tankem, enakomernem curku vlijte olivno olje. Po okusu začinimo s soljo in poprom ter ponovno premešamo.

3. Na dno posode za solato položite 3 žlice sardona. Dodamo ohlajene liste in dobro premešamo. Postrezite s popečenim kruhom. Služi 4.

Hot Dog Chic ali King Crab

9 unč oluščenega mesa kraljevskih rakov

1 žlica sesekljanih listov zelene

2 žlici majoneze (po možnosti Hellmannova)

Sveže mleti črni poper

2 do 3 žlice masla

1 žlica mletega drobnjaka.

1. Meso rakovice stisnite med roke, da odstranite vso vlago, nato pa ga razlomite na velike koščke in položite v veliko skledo. Dodajte liste zelene, majonezo in limonin sok ter dobro premešajte. Začinimo po okusu s soljo, poprom in kosmiči rdeče paprike.

2. V ponvi, ki se ne lepi, na nizkem ognju segrejte maslo, dokler se ne začne peniti. Na obeh straneh popecite hrenovke in jih rahlo ohladite.

3. 1/4 zmesi razporedimo v vsako žemljico in potresemo z drobnjakom.

Postrezite takoj. Služi 4.

Tekoča torta

1 pasijonka, olupljena in semena

¼ skodelice zmehčanega vanilijevega sladoleda

¼ skodelice mango sorbeta, zmehčano

2 maslena piškotka, zdrobljena.

1. Pasijonko prepolovite in z leseno žlico ali gumijasto lopatico postrgajte kašo skozi sitno mrežico, ki je postavljena nad skledo. Preostala semena in celulozo zavrzite.

2. V srednji skledi združite sladoled in sorbet. Zalijemo z vodko in rahlo stepemo. Vmešajte pire iz pasijonke in nato primešajte šampanjec.

3. Piškote enakomerno potresemo med 4 kozarce za martini. Vsakega prelijte z mešanico vodke in takoj postrezite. Služi 4. Vsi recepti prilagojeni od Frédéricka Grasser-Herméja.


Bakerjeva bivša žena

Frédérick Grasser-Hermé naredi kardinalni jedilniški greh, še preden sploh zapusti kuhinjo: igra se s hrano. In verjetno se bo igrala z vašimi. Pleše po svoji pariški kuhinji in brenči po francoskih melodijah, medtem ko v omaki Coca-Cola piha tekočo torto, sir in piščanec.

"To je," pojasnjuje v poskusu angleščine, "pritok Manhattna."

S tem misli, da je ustvarila konstruktivistični poklon New Yorku, por in preste pa so se dvignili s krožnika, da bi simulirali obzorje Manhattna.

Frédérick E. Grasser-Hermé (Fegh to friends) je 60-letna igralka, katere brezmejno navdušenje ji je omogočilo, da je ustvarila več kot 20 kuharskih knjig, med drugim "La Cuisinière du Cuisinier" z Alainom Ducassejem. To kljub dejstvu, da ni prišla kuhati, dokler ji prijatelji, ki so pripravili hrano, niso predstavili odlične kuhinje, ko je bila 30-letna direktorica oglaševanja. Za svojo kariero je označila en sam obrok v restavraciji Alain Chapel v Mionnayu.

Na krožnik udarja žlico sira Babybel, jo potrese s soljo tartufov in vtakne v mikrovalovno pečico. Prihaja okusen prigrizek - ena od tistih stvari, ki jih jeste, nato pa doživite drugi val presenečenja, kako dobra je.

"Salonski triki," voha Jeffrey Steingarten, pisatelj hrane in dolgoletni prijatelj Grasser-Herméja. "Ko dva ali trikrat pojeste sir v mikrovalovni pečici, ni več tako zanimivo."

Kljub temu pa Steingarten meni, da je zelo dobra kuharica. "Ko je bila poročena" - s Pierrom Herméjem, morda najbolj cenjenim slaščičarjem na svetu, sta bila skupaj 14 let, njuna ločitev je bila sporazumna in pogosto se pogovarjata o poklicnih zadevah - "šla bi k njima na večerjo in vedno bo kuhala ona. Pripravljala je klasične jedi: jagnjetino z marelicami, svinjske trebuhe - hrustljave in okusne. In presenetljivo ima boljše brbončice kot Pierre, čeprav ima on zelo dobro brbončico. Samo prehitro poje. " (Nedolgo nazaj sta Grasser-Hermé in njen nekdanji mož z avtomobilom 15-urno romala v restavracijo El Bulli Ferrana Adrià v španskem Rosesu. Preživela sta 10 ur po enem tečaju, na koncu pa je bil Pierre še vedno lačen.)

Steingarten ni edini, ki občuduje kulinarične sposobnosti Grasser-Herméja. Njeni oboževalci segajo v svet umetnosti in oblikovanja, kjer cenijo njene nenavadne izmišljotine. Za nedavni sprejem po odprtju neorealistične razstave v Le Grand Palaisu je pripravila barvito melanžo dobrot: kobaltno modra ikra leteče ribe, ki je bila nakoščena na kostnem mozgu in grah ter naribano korenje, obešeno na kvadrat agarja -agar. Tudi njeno najnovejšo kuharsko knjigo »Serijske barve« (L'Ãpure Editions) je v lonec zapakiral sodobni oblikovalec Matali Crasset.

Grasser-Hermé ima vedno prste v različnih loncih, ko ne piše kolumn v revijah ali se posvetuje s hotelskimi in restavracijskimi kuharji, sanja o novih jedeh. (S Pierrom sta odprla kratkotrajno restavracijo Korova, v kateri so ji postregli s piščancem Coca-Cola in drugimi muhastimi jedmi.) Njena zadnja obsedenost je poleg želje po dekonstrukciji lončnice "Technicolor cooking", ki jo je raziskovala. v "Serijske barve". Poimenovala jo je "mavrica mojih sanj: koktajl iz belega medveda, pica s črnim tartufom, zvitek iz modrega jastoga, vijolično pire krompir s cassisom. . . .

"V naravi moramo najti pravo barvo, da bo hrana odražala naravno," je rekla.

Vsi ti trčeči pojmi izhajajo iz njenega stanovanja, zasnovanega v Crassetu, na Champs-Ãlyséesu. Poimenovana hiša Fegh Shui, je bolj podobna Disneyjevemu mestnemu središču. Naprave so prevelike in jih je mogoče upravljati z palčniki Mickey Mouse. Zdi se, da umetnina odleti s sten z nekakšno tridimenzionalno zadrgo. Njen polnočno modri vinilni kavč meji na kiparstvo.

»Počakaj! Počakaj! " Hoče narediti svojo tekočo torto. Ko se vrti in brne, zlije šampanjec v veliko posodo za mešanje, nato polije nekaj vodke in zajemal kepe v sladoledu, pireju iz pasijonke in maslenih piškotih. Vse skupaj premeša in rezino nalije v ogromen kozarec za martini. Je presenetljivo, da je tudi to čudovit izum?

Puntarella z zeleno anchoïado

1 ½ kilograma puntarelle (italijanska radiča) ali zelenjave regrata

16 filetov inčunov v olju, sperenih in posušenih

4 žličke dodatnega kisa

½ skodelice ekstra deviškega oljčnega olja

Sveže mleti črni poper

1. Odstranite nežne notranje liste puntarele in večje zelene liste razrežite na tretjine. Preostalo jedro drobno narežemo z mandolino. (Če uporabljate regratovo zelenico, odstranite in zavrzite stebla ter liste narežite na tretjine.) Sperite v hladni vodi, odcedite, zavijte v papirnate brisače in pustite v hladilniku 1 uro.

2. Sardono (orešček iz inčunov) pripravite tako, da v kuhinjskem stroju združite inčune, česen, oljke in kis. Pri delujočem motorju v tankem, enakomernem curku vlijte olivno olje. Po okusu začinimo s soljo in poprom ter ponovno premešamo.

3. Na dno posode za solato položite 3 žlice sardona. Dodamo ohlajene liste in dobro premešamo. Postrezite s popečenim kruhom. Služi 4.

Hot Dog Chic ali King Crab

9 unč oluščenega mesa kraljevskih rakov

1 žlica sesekljanih listov zelene

2 žlici majoneze (po možnosti Hellmannova)

Sveže mleti črni poper

2 do 3 žlice masla

1 žlica mletega drobnjaka.

1. Meso rakovice stisnite med roke, da odstranite vso vlago, nato pa ga razlomite na velike koščke in položite v veliko skledo. Dodajte liste zelene, majonezo in limonin sok ter dobro premešajte. Začinimo po okusu s soljo, poprom in kosmiči rdeče paprike.

2. V ponvi, ki se ne prilepi na nizkem ognju, segrejte maslo, dokler se ne začne peniti. Na obeh straneh popecite hrenovke in jih rahlo ohladite.

3. V vsako žemljico raztresemo 1/4 mešanice in potresemo z drobnjakom.

Postrezite takoj. Služi 4.

Tekoča torta

1 pasijonka, olupljena in semena

¼ skodelice zmehčanega vanilijevega sladoleda

¼ skodelice mango sorbeta, zmehčano

2 maslena piškotka, zdrobljena.

1. Pasijonko prepolovite in z leseno žlico ali gumijasto lopatico postrgajte kašo skozi sitno mrežico, ki je postavljena nad skledo. Preostala semena in celulozo zavrzite.

2. V srednji skledi združite sladoled in sorbet. Zalijemo z vodko in rahlo stepemo. Vmešajte pasijončevo kašo in nato vmešajte šampanjec.

3. Piškote enakomerno potresemo med 4 kozarce za martini. Vsakega prelijte z mešanico vodke in takoj postrezite. Služi 4. Vsi recepti prilagojeni od Frédéricka Grasser-Herméja.


Bakerjeva bivša žena

Frédérick Grasser-Hermé naredi kardinalni jedilni greh, še preden sploh zapusti kuhinjo: igra se s hrano. In verjetno se bo igrala z vašimi. Pleše po svoji pariški kuhinji in brenči po francoskih melodijah, medtem ko v omaki Coca-Cola piha tekočo torto, sir in piščanec.

"To je," pojasnjuje v poskusu angleščine, "pritok Manhattna."

S tem misli, da je ustvarila konstruktivistični poklon New Yorku, por in preste pa so se dvignili s krožnika, da bi simulirali obzorje Manhattna.

Frédérick E. Grasser-Hermé (Fegh to friends) je 60-letna igralka, katere brezmejno navdušenje ji je omogočilo, da je ustvarila več kot 20 kuharskih knjig, med drugim "La Cuisinière du Cuisinier" z Alainom Ducassejem. To kljub dejstvu, da ni prišla kuhati, dokler ji prijatelji, ki so pripravili hrano, niso predstavili odlične kuhinje, ko je bila 30-letna direktorica oglaševanja. Za svojo kariero je označila en sam obrok v restavraciji Alain Chapel v Mionnayju.

Na krožnik udarja žlico sira Babybel, jo potrese s soljo tartufov in vtakne v mikrovalovno pečico. Prihaja okusen prigrizek - ena od tistih stvari, ki jih jeste, nato pa doživite drugi val presenečenja, kako dobra je.

"Salonski triki," voha Jeffrey Steingarten, pisatelj hrane in dolgoletni prijatelj Grasser-Herméja. "Ko dva ali trikrat pojeste sir v mikrovalovni pečici, ni več tako zanimivo."

Kljub temu pa Steingarten meni, da je zelo dobra kuharica. »Ko je bila poročena« - s Pierrom Herméjem, morda najbolj cenjenim slaščičarjem na svetu, sta bila skupaj 14 let, njuna ločitev je bila sporazumna in pogosto se pogovarjata o poklicnih zadevah - »šla bi k njima na večerjo in vedno bo kuhala ona. Pripravljala je klasične jedi: jagnjetino z marelicami, svinjske trebuhe - hrustljave in okusne. In presenetljivo je, da ima boljše brbončice kot Pierre, čeprav ima on zelo dobro brbončico. Samo prehitro poje. " (Nedolgo nazaj sta Grasser-Hermé in njen nekdanji mož z avtomobilom 15-urno romala v restavracijo El Bulli Ferrana Adrià v španskem Rosesu. Preživela sta 10 ur po enem tečaju, na koncu pa je bil Pierre še vedno lačen.)

Steingarten ni edini, ki občuduje kulinarične sposobnosti Grasser-Herméja. Njeni oboževalci segajo v svet umetnosti in oblikovanja, kjer cenijo njene nenavadne izmišljotine. Za nedavni sprejem po odprtju neorealistične razstave v Le Grand Palaisu je pripravila pisano melanžo dobrot: kobaltno modra ikra leteče ribe, namočene na kostnem mozgu in grah ter naribano korenje, obešeno na kvadrat agarja -agar. Tudi njeno najnovejšo kuharsko knjigo »Serijske barve« (L'Ãpure Editions) je v lonec zapakiral sodobni oblikovalec Matali Crasset.

Grasser-Hermé ima vedno prste v različnih loncih, ko ne piše kolumn v revijah ali se posvetuje s hotelskimi in restavracijskimi kuharji, sanja o novih jedeh. (S Pierrom sta odprla kratkotrajno restavracijo Korova, v kateri so ji postregli s piščancem iz Coca-Cole in drugimi muhastimi jedmi.) Njena zadnja obsedenost je poleg želje po dekonstrukciji lončnice "Technicolor cooking", ki jo je raziskovala. v "Serijske barve". Poimenovala jo je "mavrica mojih sanj: koktajl iz belih polarnih medvedov, pica s črnimi tartufi, zvitek iz modrega jastoga, vijolični pire krompir s cassisom. . . .

"V naravi moramo najti pravo barvo, da bo hrana odražala naravno," je rekla.

Vsi ti trčeči pojmi izhajajo iz njenega stanovanja, zasnovanega v Crassetu, na Champs-Ãlyséesu. Poimenovana hiša Fegh Shui, je bolj podobna Disneyjevemu mestnemu središču. Naprave so prevelike in jih je mogoče upravljati z palčniki Mickey Mouse. Zdi se, da umetnina odleti s sten z nekakšno tridimenzionalno zadrgo. Njen polnočno modri vinilni kavč meji na kiparstvo.

»Počakaj! Počakaj! " Hoče narediti svojo tekočo torto. Ko se vrti in brne, zlije šampanjec v veliko posodo za mešanje, nato polije nekaj vodke in zajemal kepe v sladoledu, pireju iz pasijonke in maslenih piškotih. Vse skupaj premeša in rezino nalije v ogromen kozarec za martini. Je presenetljivo, da je tudi to čudovit izum?

Puntarella z zeleno anchoïado

1 ½ kilograma puntarelle (italijanska radiča) ali zelenjave regrata

16 filetov inčunov v olju, sperenih in posušenih

4 žličke dodatnega kisa

½ skodelice ekstra deviškega oljčnega olja

Sveže mleti črni poper

1. Odstranite nežne notranje liste puntarele in večje zelene liste razrežite na tretjine. Preostalo jedro drobno narežemo z mandolino. (Če uporabljate regratovo zelenico, odstranite in zavrzite stebla ter liste narežite na tretjine.) Sperite v hladni vodi, odcedite, zavijte v papirnate brisače in pustite v hladilniku 1 uro.

2. Sardono (orešček iz inčunov) pripravite tako, da v kuhinjskem stroju združite inčune, česen, oljke in kis. Pri delujočem motorju v tankem, enakomernem curku vlijte olivno olje. Po okusu začinimo s soljo in poprom ter ponovno premešamo.

3. Na dno posode za solato položite 3 žlice sardona. Dodamo ohlajene liste in dobro premešamo. Postrezite s popečenim kruhom. Služi 4.

Hot Dog Chic ali King Crab

9 unč oluščenega mesa kraljevskih rakov

1 žlica sesekljanih listov zelene

2 žlici majoneze (po možnosti Hellmannova)

Sveže mleti črni poper

2 do 3 žlice masla

1 žlica mletega drobnjaka.

1. Meso rakovice stisnite med roke, da odstranite vso vlago, nato pa ga razlomite na velike koščke in položite v veliko skledo. Dodajte liste zelene, majonezo in limonin sok ter dobro premešajte. Po okusu začinimo s soljo, poprom in kosmiči rdeče paprike.

2. V ponvi, ki se ne lepi, na nizkem ognju segrejte maslo, dokler se ne začne peniti. Na obeh straneh popecite hrenovke in jih rahlo ohladite.

3. V vsako žemljico raztresemo 1/4 mešanice in potresemo z drobnjakom.

Postrezite takoj. Služi 4.

Tekoča torta

1 pasijonka, olupljena in semena

¼ skodelice zmehčanega vanilijevega sladoleda

¼ skodelice mango sorbeta, zmehčano

2 maslena piškotka, zdrobljena.

1. Pasijonko prepolovite in z leseno žlico ali gumijasto lopatico postrgajte kašo skozi sitno mrežico, ki je postavljena nad skledo. Preostala semena in celulozo zavrzite.

2. V srednji skledi združite sladoled in sorbet. Zalijemo z vodko in rahlo stepemo. Vmešajte pire iz pasijonke in nato primešajte šampanjec.

3. Piškote enakomerno potresemo med 4 kozarce za martini. Vsakega prelijte z mešanico vodke in takoj postrezite. Služi 4. Vsi recepti prilagojeni od Frédéricka Grasser-Herméja.


Bakerjeva bivša žena

Frédérick Grasser-Hermé naredi kardinalni jedilniški greh, še preden sploh zapusti kuhinjo: igra se s hrano. In verjetno se bo igrala z vašimi. Pleše po svoji pariški kuhinji in brenči po francoskih melodijah, medtem ko v omaki Coca-Cola piha tekočo torto, sir in piščanec.

"To je," pojasnjuje v poskusu angleščine, "pritok Manhattna."

S tem misli, da je ustvarila konstruktivistični poklon New Yorku, por in preste pa so se dvignili s krožnika, da bi simulirali obzorje Manhattna.

Frédérick E. Grasser-Hermé (Fegh to friends) je 60-letna igralka, katere brezmejno navdušenje ji je omogočilo, da je ustvarila več kot 20 kuharskih knjig, med drugim "La Cuisinière du Cuisinier" z Alainom Ducassejem. To kljub dejstvu, da ni prišla kuhati, dokler ji prijatelji, ki so privoščili hrano, niso predstavili odlične kuhinje, ko je bila 30-letna direktorica oglaševanja. Za svojo kariero je označila en sam obrok v restavraciji Alain Chapel v Mionnayu.

Na krožnik udarja žlico sira Babybel, jo potrese s soljo tartufov in vtakne v mikrovalovno pečico. Prihaja okusen prigrizek - ena od tistih stvari, ki jih jeste, nato pa doživite drugi val presenečenja, kako dobra je.

"Salonski triki," voha Jeffrey Steingarten, pisatelj hrane in dolgoletni prijatelj Grasser-Herméja. "Ko dva ali trikrat pojeste sir v mikrovalovni pečici, ni več tako zanimivo."

Kljub temu Steingarten meni, da je zelo dobra kuharica. "Ko je bila poročena" - s Pierrom Herméjem, morda najbolj cenjenim slaščičarjem na svetu, sta bila skupaj 14 let, njuna ločitev je bila sporazumna in pogosto se pogovarjata o poklicnih zadevah - "šla bi k njima na večerjo in vedno bo kuhala ona. Pripravljala je klasične jedi: jagnjetino z marelicami, svinjske trebuhe - hrustljave in okusne. In presenetljivo ima boljše brbončice kot Pierre, čeprav ima on zelo dobro brbončico. Samo prehitro poje. " (Nedolgo nazaj sta Grasser-Hermé in njen nekdanji mož z avtomobilom 15-urno romala v restavracijo El Bulli Ferrana Adrià v španskem Rosesu. Preživela sta 10 ur po enem tečaju, na koncu pa je bil Pierre še vedno lačen.)

Steingarten ni edini, ki občuduje kulinarične sposobnosti Grasser-Herméja. Njeni oboževalci segajo v svet umetnosti in oblikovanja, kjer cenijo njene nenavadne izmišljotine. Za nedavni sprejem po odprtju neorealistične razstave v Le Grand Palaisu je pripravila pisano melanžo dobrot: kobaltno modra ikra leteče ribe, namočene na kostnem mozgu in grah ter naribano korenje, obešeno na kvadrat agarja -agar. Tudi njeno najnovejšo kuharsko knjigo »Serijske barve« (L'Ãpure Editions) je v lonec zapakiral sodobni oblikovalec Matali Crasset.

Grasser-Hermé ima vedno prste v različnih loncih, ko ne piše kolumn v revijah ali se posvetuje s hotelskimi in restavracijskimi kuharji, sanja o novih jedeh. (S Pierrom sta odprla kratkotrajno restavracijo Korova, v kateri so ji postregli s piščancem iz Coca-Cole in drugimi muhastimi jedmi.) Njena zadnja obsedenost je poleg želje po dekonstrukciji lončnice "Technicolor cooking", ki jo je raziskovala. v "Serijske barve". Poimenovala jo je "mavrica mojih sanj: koktajl iz belega medveda, pica s črnim tartufom, zvitek iz modrega jastoga, vijolično pire krompir s cassisom. . . .

"V naravi moramo najti pravo barvo, da bo hrana odražala naravno," je rekla.

Vsi ti trčeči pojmi izhajajo iz njenega stanovanja, zasnovanega v Crassetu, na Champs-Ãlyséesu. Poimenovana hiša Fegh Shui, je bolj podobna Disneyjevemu mestnemu središču. Naprave so prevelike in jih je mogoče upravljati z palčniki Mickey Mouse. Zdi se, da umetnina odleti s sten z nekakšno tridimenzionalno zadrgo. Njen polnočno modri vinilni kavč meji na kiparstvo.

»Počakaj! Počakaj! " Hoče narediti svojo tekočo torto. Ko se vrti in brne, nalije šampanjec v veliko posodo za mešanje, nato polije nekaj vodke in zajemal kepe v sladoledu, pireju iz pasijonke in maslenih piškotih. Vse skupaj premeša in rezino nalije v ogromen kozarec za martini. Je presenetljivo, da je tudi to čudovit izum?

Puntarella z zeleno anchoïado

1 ½ kilograma puntarelle (italijanska radiča) ali zelenjave regrata

16 filetov inčunov v olju, sperenih in posušenih

4 žličke dodatnega kisa

½ skodelice ekstra deviškega oljčnega olja

Sveže mleti črni poper

1. Odstranite nežne notranje liste puntarele in večje zelene liste razrežite na tretjine. Preostalo jedro drobno narežemo z mandolino. (Če uporabljate regratovo zelenico, odstranite in zavrzite stebla ter liste narežite na tretjine.) Sperite v hladni vodi, odcedite, zavijte v papirnate brisače in pustite v hladilniku 1 uro.

2. Sardono (orešček iz inčunov) pripravite tako, da v kuhinjskem stroju združite inčune, česen, oljke in kis. Pri delujočem motorju v tankem, enakomernem curku vlijte olivno olje. Po okusu začinimo s soljo in poprom ter ponovno premešamo.

3. Na dno posode za solato položite 3 žlice sardona. Dodamo ohlajene liste in dobro premešamo. Postrezite s popečenim kruhom. Služi 4.

Hot Dog Chic ali King Crab

9 unč oluščenega mesa kraljevskih rakov

1 žlica sesekljanih listov zelene

2 žlici majoneze (po možnosti Hellmannova)

Sveže mleti črni poper

2 do 3 žlice masla

1 žlica mletega drobnjaka.

1. Meso rakovice stisnite med roke, da odstranite vso vlago, nato pa ga razlomite na velike koščke in položite v veliko skledo. Dodajte liste zelene, majonezo in limonin sok ter dobro premešajte. Po okusu začinimo s soljo, poprom in kosmiči rdeče paprike.

2. V ponvi, ki se ne prilepi na nizkem ognju, segrejte maslo, dokler se ne začne peniti. Na obeh straneh popecite hrenovke in jih rahlo ohladite.

3. 1/4 zmesi razporedimo v vsako žemljico in potresemo z drobnjakom.

Postrezite takoj. Služi 4.

Tekoča torta

1 pasijonka, olupljena in semena

¼ skodelice zmehčanega vanilijevega sladoleda

¼ skodelice mango sorbeta, zmehčano

2 maslena piškotka, zdrobljena.

1. Pasijonko prepolovite in z leseno žlico ali gumijasto lopatico postrgajte kašo skozi sitno mrežico, ki je postavljena nad skledo. Preostala semena in celulozo zavrzite.

2. V srednji skledi združite sladoled in sorbet. Zalijemo z vodko in rahlo stepemo. Vmešajte pasijončevo kašo in nato vmešajte šampanjec.

3. Piškote enakomerno potresemo med 4 kozarce za martini. Vsakega prelijte z mešanico vodke in takoj postrezite. Služi 4. Vsi recepti prilagojeni od Frédéricka Grasser-Herméja.


Bakerjeva bivša žena

Frédérick Grasser-Hermé naredi kardinalni jedilni greh, še preden sploh zapusti kuhinjo: igra se s hrano. In verjetno se bo igrala z vašimi. Pleše po svoji pariški kuhinji in brenči po francoskih melodijah, medtem ko v omaki Coca-Cola piha tekočo torto, sir in piščanec.

"To," pojasnjuje v poskusu angleščine, "je pritok Manhattna."

S tem misli, da je ustvarila konstruktivistični poklon New Yorku, por in preste pa so se dvignili s krožnika, da bi simulirali obzorje Manhattna.

Frédérick E. Grasser-Hermé (Fegh to friends) je 60-letna igralka, katere brezmejno navdušenje ji je omogočilo, da je ustvarila več kot 20 kuharskih knjig, med drugim "La Cuisinière du Cuisinier" z Alainom Ducassejem. To kljub dejstvu, da ni prišla kuhati, dokler ji prijatelji, ki so privoščili hrano, niso predstavili odlične kuhinje, ko je bila 30-letna direktorica oglaševanja. Za svojo kariero je označila en sam obrok v restavraciji Alain Chapel v Mionnayju.

Na krožnik udarja žlico sira Babybel, jo potrese s soljo tartufov in vtakne v mikrovalovno pečico. Prihaja okusen prigrizek - ena od tistih stvari, ki jih jeste, nato pa doživite drugi val presenečenja, kako dobra je.

"Salonski triki," voha Jeffrey Steingarten, pisatelj hrane in dolgoletni prijatelj Grasser-Herméja. "Ko dva ali trikrat pojeste sir v mikrovalovni pečici, ni več tako zanimivo."

Kljub temu pa Steingarten meni, da je zelo dobra kuharica. "Ko je bila poročena" - s Pierrom Herméjem, morda najbolj cenjenim slaščičarjem na svetu, sta bila skupaj 14 let, njuna ločitev je bila sporazumna in pogosto se pogovarjata o poklicnih zadevah - "šla bi k njima na večerjo in vedno bo kuhala ona. Pripravljala je klasične jedi: jagnjetino z marelicami, svinjske trebuhe - hrustljave in okusne. In presenetljivo ima boljše brbončice kot Pierre, čeprav ima on zelo dobro brbončico. Samo prehitro poje. " (Nedolgo nazaj sta Grasser-Hermé in njen nekdanji mož z avtomobilom 15-urno romala v restavracijo El Bulli Ferrana Adrià v španskem Rosesu. Preživela sta 10 ur po enem tečaju, na koncu pa je bil Pierre še vedno lačen.)

Steingarten ni edini, ki občuduje kulinarične sposobnosti Grasser-Herméja. Njeni oboževalci segajo v svet umetnosti in oblikovanja, kjer cenijo njene nenavadne izmišljotine. Na nedavnem sprejemu po odprtju neorealistične razstave v Le Grand Palaisu je pripravila pisano melanžo dobrot: kobaltno modra ikra leteče ribe, nagnjene na kostno kost in grah ter naribano korenje, obešeno na kvadrat agarja -agar. Tudi njeno najnovejšo kuharsko knjigo »Serijske barve« (L'Ãpure Editions) je v lonec zapakiral sodobni oblikovalec Matali Crasset.

Grasser-Hermé always has her fingers in a variety of pots when she is not writing magazine columns or consulting with hotel and restaurant chefs, she is dreaming up new dishes. (She and Pierre opened the short-lived Korova restaurant, which served her Coca-Cola chicken and other whimsical fare.) Her most recent obsession, apart from a desire to deconstruct pot-au-feu, is the “Technicolor cooking” she explored in “Serial Colors.” She calls it “the rainbow of my dreams: a white polar-bear cocktail, a black truffle pizza, a blue lobster roll, violet mashed potatoes with cassis. . . .

“We must find in nature the right color so that food reflects the natural,” I think she said.

All of these colliding notions emerge from her Crasset-designed apartment off the Champs-Ãlysées. Dubbed Fegh Shui House, it’s more like a Disney Toontown. The appliances are oversize, capable of being operated with Mickey Mouse mittens. The artwork seems to pop off the walls with a kind of three-dimensional zip. Her midnight blue vinyl couch borders on sculpture.

“Wait! Wait!” She wants to make her liquid cake. Twirling and humming, she pours Champagne into a big mixing bowl, then splashes in some vodka and scoops in ice cream, passion-fruit purée and butter cookies. She mixes it all together and pours a slice into a huge martini glass. Is it any surprise that this, too, is a wonderful invention?

Puntarella With Green Anchoïade

1 ½ pounds puntarella (Italian chicory) or dandelion greens

16 anchovy fillets in oil, rinsed and patted dry

4 teaspoons extra vinegar

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Sveže mleti črni poper

1. Remove the tender inner leaves of the puntarella and cut the larger green leaves in thirds. Using a mandoline, finely slice the remaining core. (If using dandelion greens, remove and discard the stems and cut the leaves into thirds.) Rinse in cold water, drain, wrap in paper towels and refrigerate for 1 hour.

2. Prepare the anchoïade (anchovy sauce) by combining the anchovies, garlic, olives and vinegar in a food processor. With the motor running, pour in the olive oil in a thin, steady stream. Season to taste with salt and pepper and mix again.

3. Place 3 tablespoons of the anchoïade in the bottom of a salad bowl. Add the chilled leaves and mix well. Serve with toasted bread. Serves 4.

Hot Dog Chic au King Crab

9 ounces shelled king crab meat

1 tablespoon chopped celery leaves

2 tablespoons mayonnaise (preferably Hellmann’s)

Sveže mleti črni poper

2 to 3 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon minced chives.

1. Squeeze the crab meat between your hands to remove all the moisture and then break into large pieces and place in a large bowl. Add the celery leaves, mayonnaise and lemon juice and mix well. Season to taste with salt, pepper and red-pepper flakes.

2. In a nonstick skillet set over low heat, heat the butter until it begins to foam. Brown the hot-dog buns on both sides and set aside to cool slightly.

3. Spread 1/4 of the mixture into each bun and sprinkle with chives.

Postrezite takoj. Serves 4.

Liquid Cake

1 passion fruit, skinned and seeded

¼ cup vanilla ice cream, softened

¼ cup mango sorbet, softened

2 butter cookies, crumbled.

1. Halve the passion fruit and, using a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, scrape the pulp through a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl. Discard the remaining seeds and pulp.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the ice cream and sorbet. Pour in the vodka and whisk lightly. Stir in the passion-fruit purée and then fold in the Champagne.

3. Sprinkle the cookies evenly among 4 martini glasses. Top each with the vodka mixture and serve immediately. Serves 4. All recipes adapted from Frédérick Grasser-Hermé.


The Baker’s Ex-Wife

Frédérick Grasser-Hermé commits the cardinal dining-room sin before she even leaves the kitchen: she plays with her food. And she’s liable to play with yours. She dances around her Paris kitchen humming snatches of French tunes while she whips up a liquid cake, cheese froufrous and chicken in Coca-Cola sauce.

“This,” she explains in an attempt at English, “is a Manhattan tributary.”

What she means is that she has concocted a constructivist tribute to New York City, with leeks and pretzels rising off a plate to simulate the Manhattan skyline.

Frédérick E. Grasser-Hermé (Fegh to friends) is a gamine 60-something whose boundless enthusiasm has allowed her to produce more than 20 cookbooks, including “La Cuisinière du Cuisinier” with Alain Ducasse. This in spite of the fact that she didn’t come to cooking until her foodie friends introduced her to fine cuisine when she was a 30-year-old advertising executive. She has credited a single meal at Alain Chapel’s restaurant in Mionnay for her career epiphany.

She slaps a blob of Babybel cheese on a plate, sprinkles it with truffle salt and sticks it into a microwave. Out comes a tasty snack — one of those things you eat and then have a second wave of surprise at how good it is.

“Parlor tricks,” sniffs Jeffrey Steingarten, the food writer and longtime friend of Grasser-Hermé. “After you eat the microwaved cheese two or three times, it is not so interesting.”

Nevertheless, Steingarten considers her a very good cook. “When she was married” — she and Pierre Hermé, perhaps the world’s most highly esteemed pastry chef, were together for 14 years their divorce was amicable, and they speak often about professional matters — “I would go to their house for dinner, and she would always be the one to cook. She would make classic meals: lamb with apricots, pork bellies — crisp and delicious. And surprisingly, she has a better palate than Pierre, although he has a very good palate. It’s just that he eats too fast.” (Not long ago, Grasser-Hermé and her ex-husband made a 15-hour pilgrimage by car to Ferran Adrià’s El Bulli restaurant in Roses, Spain. They spent 10 hours eating one course after another, and at the end, Pierre was still hungry.)

Steingarten is not the only one who admires Grasser-Hermé’s culinary skills. Her fans extend into the art and design worlds, where they value her offbeat concoctions. For a recent reception following the opening of a neo-realist exhibit at Le Grand Palais, she produced a colorful mélange of treats: cobalt blue flying-fish roe mounded on top of a marrow bone and peas and grated carrots suspended in a square of agar-agar. Even her most recent cookbook, “Serial Colors” (L’Ãpure Editions), was packaged in a pot by the of-the-moment designer Matali Crasset.

Grasser-Hermé always has her fingers in a variety of pots when she is not writing magazine columns or consulting with hotel and restaurant chefs, she is dreaming up new dishes. (She and Pierre opened the short-lived Korova restaurant, which served her Coca-Cola chicken and other whimsical fare.) Her most recent obsession, apart from a desire to deconstruct pot-au-feu, is the “Technicolor cooking” she explored in “Serial Colors.” She calls it “the rainbow of my dreams: a white polar-bear cocktail, a black truffle pizza, a blue lobster roll, violet mashed potatoes with cassis. . . .

“We must find in nature the right color so that food reflects the natural,” I think she said.

All of these colliding notions emerge from her Crasset-designed apartment off the Champs-Ãlysées. Dubbed Fegh Shui House, it’s more like a Disney Toontown. The appliances are oversize, capable of being operated with Mickey Mouse mittens. The artwork seems to pop off the walls with a kind of three-dimensional zip. Her midnight blue vinyl couch borders on sculpture.

“Wait! Wait!” She wants to make her liquid cake. Twirling and humming, she pours Champagne into a big mixing bowl, then splashes in some vodka and scoops in ice cream, passion-fruit purée and butter cookies. She mixes it all together and pours a slice into a huge martini glass. Is it any surprise that this, too, is a wonderful invention?

Puntarella With Green Anchoïade

1 ½ pounds puntarella (Italian chicory) or dandelion greens

16 anchovy fillets in oil, rinsed and patted dry

4 teaspoons extra vinegar

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Sveže mleti črni poper

1. Remove the tender inner leaves of the puntarella and cut the larger green leaves in thirds. Using a mandoline, finely slice the remaining core. (If using dandelion greens, remove and discard the stems and cut the leaves into thirds.) Rinse in cold water, drain, wrap in paper towels and refrigerate for 1 hour.

2. Prepare the anchoïade (anchovy sauce) by combining the anchovies, garlic, olives and vinegar in a food processor. With the motor running, pour in the olive oil in a thin, steady stream. Season to taste with salt and pepper and mix again.

3. Place 3 tablespoons of the anchoïade in the bottom of a salad bowl. Add the chilled leaves and mix well. Serve with toasted bread. Serves 4.

Hot Dog Chic au King Crab

9 ounces shelled king crab meat

1 tablespoon chopped celery leaves

2 tablespoons mayonnaise (preferably Hellmann’s)

Sveže mleti črni poper

2 to 3 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon minced chives.

1. Squeeze the crab meat between your hands to remove all the moisture and then break into large pieces and place in a large bowl. Add the celery leaves, mayonnaise and lemon juice and mix well. Season to taste with salt, pepper and red-pepper flakes.

2. In a nonstick skillet set over low heat, heat the butter until it begins to foam. Brown the hot-dog buns on both sides and set aside to cool slightly.

3. Spread 1/4 of the mixture into each bun and sprinkle with chives.

Postrezite takoj. Serves 4.

Liquid Cake

1 passion fruit, skinned and seeded

¼ cup vanilla ice cream, softened

¼ cup mango sorbet, softened

2 butter cookies, crumbled.

1. Halve the passion fruit and, using a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, scrape the pulp through a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl. Discard the remaining seeds and pulp.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the ice cream and sorbet. Pour in the vodka and whisk lightly. Stir in the passion-fruit purée and then fold in the Champagne.

3. Sprinkle the cookies evenly among 4 martini glasses. Top each with the vodka mixture and serve immediately. Serves 4. All recipes adapted from Frédérick Grasser-Hermé.


The Baker’s Ex-Wife

Frédérick Grasser-Hermé commits the cardinal dining-room sin before she even leaves the kitchen: she plays with her food. And she’s liable to play with yours. She dances around her Paris kitchen humming snatches of French tunes while she whips up a liquid cake, cheese froufrous and chicken in Coca-Cola sauce.

“This,” she explains in an attempt at English, “is a Manhattan tributary.”

What she means is that she has concocted a constructivist tribute to New York City, with leeks and pretzels rising off a plate to simulate the Manhattan skyline.

Frédérick E. Grasser-Hermé (Fegh to friends) is a gamine 60-something whose boundless enthusiasm has allowed her to produce more than 20 cookbooks, including “La Cuisinière du Cuisinier” with Alain Ducasse. This in spite of the fact that she didn’t come to cooking until her foodie friends introduced her to fine cuisine when she was a 30-year-old advertising executive. She has credited a single meal at Alain Chapel’s restaurant in Mionnay for her career epiphany.

She slaps a blob of Babybel cheese on a plate, sprinkles it with truffle salt and sticks it into a microwave. Out comes a tasty snack — one of those things you eat and then have a second wave of surprise at how good it is.

“Parlor tricks,” sniffs Jeffrey Steingarten, the food writer and longtime friend of Grasser-Hermé. “After you eat the microwaved cheese two or three times, it is not so interesting.”

Nevertheless, Steingarten considers her a very good cook. “When she was married” — she and Pierre Hermé, perhaps the world’s most highly esteemed pastry chef, were together for 14 years their divorce was amicable, and they speak often about professional matters — “I would go to their house for dinner, and she would always be the one to cook. She would make classic meals: lamb with apricots, pork bellies — crisp and delicious. And surprisingly, she has a better palate than Pierre, although he has a very good palate. It’s just that he eats too fast.” (Not long ago, Grasser-Hermé and her ex-husband made a 15-hour pilgrimage by car to Ferran Adrià’s El Bulli restaurant in Roses, Spain. They spent 10 hours eating one course after another, and at the end, Pierre was still hungry.)

Steingarten is not the only one who admires Grasser-Hermé’s culinary skills. Her fans extend into the art and design worlds, where they value her offbeat concoctions. For a recent reception following the opening of a neo-realist exhibit at Le Grand Palais, she produced a colorful mélange of treats: cobalt blue flying-fish roe mounded on top of a marrow bone and peas and grated carrots suspended in a square of agar-agar. Even her most recent cookbook, “Serial Colors” (L’Ãpure Editions), was packaged in a pot by the of-the-moment designer Matali Crasset.

Grasser-Hermé always has her fingers in a variety of pots when she is not writing magazine columns or consulting with hotel and restaurant chefs, she is dreaming up new dishes. (She and Pierre opened the short-lived Korova restaurant, which served her Coca-Cola chicken and other whimsical fare.) Her most recent obsession, apart from a desire to deconstruct pot-au-feu, is the “Technicolor cooking” she explored in “Serial Colors.” She calls it “the rainbow of my dreams: a white polar-bear cocktail, a black truffle pizza, a blue lobster roll, violet mashed potatoes with cassis. . . .

“We must find in nature the right color so that food reflects the natural,” I think she said.

All of these colliding notions emerge from her Crasset-designed apartment off the Champs-Ãlysées. Dubbed Fegh Shui House, it’s more like a Disney Toontown. The appliances are oversize, capable of being operated with Mickey Mouse mittens. The artwork seems to pop off the walls with a kind of three-dimensional zip. Her midnight blue vinyl couch borders on sculpture.

“Wait! Wait!” She wants to make her liquid cake. Twirling and humming, she pours Champagne into a big mixing bowl, then splashes in some vodka and scoops in ice cream, passion-fruit purée and butter cookies. She mixes it all together and pours a slice into a huge martini glass. Is it any surprise that this, too, is a wonderful invention?

Puntarella With Green Anchoïade

1 ½ pounds puntarella (Italian chicory) or dandelion greens

16 anchovy fillets in oil, rinsed and patted dry

4 teaspoons extra vinegar

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Sveže mleti črni poper

1. Remove the tender inner leaves of the puntarella and cut the larger green leaves in thirds. Using a mandoline, finely slice the remaining core. (If using dandelion greens, remove and discard the stems and cut the leaves into thirds.) Rinse in cold water, drain, wrap in paper towels and refrigerate for 1 hour.

2. Prepare the anchoïade (anchovy sauce) by combining the anchovies, garlic, olives and vinegar in a food processor. With the motor running, pour in the olive oil in a thin, steady stream. Season to taste with salt and pepper and mix again.

3. Place 3 tablespoons of the anchoïade in the bottom of a salad bowl. Add the chilled leaves and mix well. Serve with toasted bread. Serves 4.

Hot Dog Chic au King Crab

9 ounces shelled king crab meat

1 tablespoon chopped celery leaves

2 tablespoons mayonnaise (preferably Hellmann’s)

Sveže mleti črni poper

2 to 3 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon minced chives.

1. Squeeze the crab meat between your hands to remove all the moisture and then break into large pieces and place in a large bowl. Add the celery leaves, mayonnaise and lemon juice and mix well. Season to taste with salt, pepper and red-pepper flakes.

2. In a nonstick skillet set over low heat, heat the butter until it begins to foam. Brown the hot-dog buns on both sides and set aside to cool slightly.

3. Spread 1/4 of the mixture into each bun and sprinkle with chives.

Postrezite takoj. Serves 4.

Liquid Cake

1 passion fruit, skinned and seeded

¼ cup vanilla ice cream, softened

¼ cup mango sorbet, softened

2 butter cookies, crumbled.

1. Halve the passion fruit and, using a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, scrape the pulp through a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl. Discard the remaining seeds and pulp.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the ice cream and sorbet. Pour in the vodka and whisk lightly. Stir in the passion-fruit purée and then fold in the Champagne.

3. Sprinkle the cookies evenly among 4 martini glasses. Top each with the vodka mixture and serve immediately. Serves 4. All recipes adapted from Frédérick Grasser-Hermé.


The Baker’s Ex-Wife

Frédérick Grasser-Hermé commits the cardinal dining-room sin before she even leaves the kitchen: she plays with her food. And she’s liable to play with yours. She dances around her Paris kitchen humming snatches of French tunes while she whips up a liquid cake, cheese froufrous and chicken in Coca-Cola sauce.

“This,” she explains in an attempt at English, “is a Manhattan tributary.”

What she means is that she has concocted a constructivist tribute to New York City, with leeks and pretzels rising off a plate to simulate the Manhattan skyline.

Frédérick E. Grasser-Hermé (Fegh to friends) is a gamine 60-something whose boundless enthusiasm has allowed her to produce more than 20 cookbooks, including “La Cuisinière du Cuisinier” with Alain Ducasse. This in spite of the fact that she didn’t come to cooking until her foodie friends introduced her to fine cuisine when she was a 30-year-old advertising executive. She has credited a single meal at Alain Chapel’s restaurant in Mionnay for her career epiphany.

She slaps a blob of Babybel cheese on a plate, sprinkles it with truffle salt and sticks it into a microwave. Out comes a tasty snack — one of those things you eat and then have a second wave of surprise at how good it is.

“Parlor tricks,” sniffs Jeffrey Steingarten, the food writer and longtime friend of Grasser-Hermé. “After you eat the microwaved cheese two or three times, it is not so interesting.”

Nevertheless, Steingarten considers her a very good cook. “When she was married” — she and Pierre Hermé, perhaps the world’s most highly esteemed pastry chef, were together for 14 years their divorce was amicable, and they speak often about professional matters — “I would go to their house for dinner, and she would always be the one to cook. She would make classic meals: lamb with apricots, pork bellies — crisp and delicious. And surprisingly, she has a better palate than Pierre, although he has a very good palate. It’s just that he eats too fast.” (Not long ago, Grasser-Hermé and her ex-husband made a 15-hour pilgrimage by car to Ferran Adrià’s El Bulli restaurant in Roses, Spain. They spent 10 hours eating one course after another, and at the end, Pierre was still hungry.)

Steingarten is not the only one who admires Grasser-Hermé’s culinary skills. Her fans extend into the art and design worlds, where they value her offbeat concoctions. For a recent reception following the opening of a neo-realist exhibit at Le Grand Palais, she produced a colorful mélange of treats: cobalt blue flying-fish roe mounded on top of a marrow bone and peas and grated carrots suspended in a square of agar-agar. Even her most recent cookbook, “Serial Colors” (L’Ãpure Editions), was packaged in a pot by the of-the-moment designer Matali Crasset.

Grasser-Hermé always has her fingers in a variety of pots when she is not writing magazine columns or consulting with hotel and restaurant chefs, she is dreaming up new dishes. (She and Pierre opened the short-lived Korova restaurant, which served her Coca-Cola chicken and other whimsical fare.) Her most recent obsession, apart from a desire to deconstruct pot-au-feu, is the “Technicolor cooking” she explored in “Serial Colors.” She calls it “the rainbow of my dreams: a white polar-bear cocktail, a black truffle pizza, a blue lobster roll, violet mashed potatoes with cassis. . . .

“We must find in nature the right color so that food reflects the natural,” I think she said.

All of these colliding notions emerge from her Crasset-designed apartment off the Champs-Ãlysées. Dubbed Fegh Shui House, it’s more like a Disney Toontown. The appliances are oversize, capable of being operated with Mickey Mouse mittens. The artwork seems to pop off the walls with a kind of three-dimensional zip. Her midnight blue vinyl couch borders on sculpture.

“Wait! Wait!” She wants to make her liquid cake. Twirling and humming, she pours Champagne into a big mixing bowl, then splashes in some vodka and scoops in ice cream, passion-fruit purée and butter cookies. She mixes it all together and pours a slice into a huge martini glass. Is it any surprise that this, too, is a wonderful invention?

Puntarella With Green Anchoïade

1 ½ pounds puntarella (Italian chicory) or dandelion greens

16 anchovy fillets in oil, rinsed and patted dry

4 teaspoons extra vinegar

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Sveže mleti črni poper

1. Remove the tender inner leaves of the puntarella and cut the larger green leaves in thirds. Using a mandoline, finely slice the remaining core. (If using dandelion greens, remove and discard the stems and cut the leaves into thirds.) Rinse in cold water, drain, wrap in paper towels and refrigerate for 1 hour.

2. Prepare the anchoïade (anchovy sauce) by combining the anchovies, garlic, olives and vinegar in a food processor. With the motor running, pour in the olive oil in a thin, steady stream. Season to taste with salt and pepper and mix again.

3. Place 3 tablespoons of the anchoïade in the bottom of a salad bowl. Add the chilled leaves and mix well. Serve with toasted bread. Serves 4.

Hot Dog Chic au King Crab

9 ounces shelled king crab meat

1 tablespoon chopped celery leaves

2 tablespoons mayonnaise (preferably Hellmann’s)

Sveže mleti črni poper

2 to 3 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon minced chives.

1. Squeeze the crab meat between your hands to remove all the moisture and then break into large pieces and place in a large bowl. Add the celery leaves, mayonnaise and lemon juice and mix well. Season to taste with salt, pepper and red-pepper flakes.

2. In a nonstick skillet set over low heat, heat the butter until it begins to foam. Brown the hot-dog buns on both sides and set aside to cool slightly.

3. Spread 1/4 of the mixture into each bun and sprinkle with chives.

Postrezite takoj. Serves 4.

Liquid Cake

1 passion fruit, skinned and seeded

¼ cup vanilla ice cream, softened

¼ cup mango sorbet, softened

2 butter cookies, crumbled.

1. Halve the passion fruit and, using a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, scrape the pulp through a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl. Discard the remaining seeds and pulp.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the ice cream and sorbet. Pour in the vodka and whisk lightly. Stir in the passion-fruit purée and then fold in the Champagne.

3. Sprinkle the cookies evenly among 4 martini glasses. Top each with the vodka mixture and serve immediately. Serves 4. All recipes adapted from Frédérick Grasser-Hermé.


The Baker’s Ex-Wife

Frédérick Grasser-Hermé commits the cardinal dining-room sin before she even leaves the kitchen: she plays with her food. And she’s liable to play with yours. She dances around her Paris kitchen humming snatches of French tunes while she whips up a liquid cake, cheese froufrous and chicken in Coca-Cola sauce.

“This,” she explains in an attempt at English, “is a Manhattan tributary.”

What she means is that she has concocted a constructivist tribute to New York City, with leeks and pretzels rising off a plate to simulate the Manhattan skyline.

Frédérick E. Grasser-Hermé (Fegh to friends) is a gamine 60-something whose boundless enthusiasm has allowed her to produce more than 20 cookbooks, including “La Cuisinière du Cuisinier” with Alain Ducasse. This in spite of the fact that she didn’t come to cooking until her foodie friends introduced her to fine cuisine when she was a 30-year-old advertising executive. She has credited a single meal at Alain Chapel’s restaurant in Mionnay for her career epiphany.

She slaps a blob of Babybel cheese on a plate, sprinkles it with truffle salt and sticks it into a microwave. Out comes a tasty snack — one of those things you eat and then have a second wave of surprise at how good it is.

“Parlor tricks,” sniffs Jeffrey Steingarten, the food writer and longtime friend of Grasser-Hermé. “After you eat the microwaved cheese two or three times, it is not so interesting.”

Nevertheless, Steingarten considers her a very good cook. “When she was married” — she and Pierre Hermé, perhaps the world’s most highly esteemed pastry chef, were together for 14 years their divorce was amicable, and they speak often about professional matters — “I would go to their house for dinner, and she would always be the one to cook. She would make classic meals: lamb with apricots, pork bellies — crisp and delicious. And surprisingly, she has a better palate than Pierre, although he has a very good palate. It’s just that he eats too fast.” (Not long ago, Grasser-Hermé and her ex-husband made a 15-hour pilgrimage by car to Ferran Adrià’s El Bulli restaurant in Roses, Spain. They spent 10 hours eating one course after another, and at the end, Pierre was still hungry.)

Steingarten is not the only one who admires Grasser-Hermé’s culinary skills. Her fans extend into the art and design worlds, where they value her offbeat concoctions. For a recent reception following the opening of a neo-realist exhibit at Le Grand Palais, she produced a colorful mélange of treats: cobalt blue flying-fish roe mounded on top of a marrow bone and peas and grated carrots suspended in a square of agar-agar. Even her most recent cookbook, “Serial Colors” (L’Ãpure Editions), was packaged in a pot by the of-the-moment designer Matali Crasset.

Grasser-Hermé always has her fingers in a variety of pots when she is not writing magazine columns or consulting with hotel and restaurant chefs, she is dreaming up new dishes. (She and Pierre opened the short-lived Korova restaurant, which served her Coca-Cola chicken and other whimsical fare.) Her most recent obsession, apart from a desire to deconstruct pot-au-feu, is the “Technicolor cooking” she explored in “Serial Colors.” She calls it “the rainbow of my dreams: a white polar-bear cocktail, a black truffle pizza, a blue lobster roll, violet mashed potatoes with cassis. . . .

“We must find in nature the right color so that food reflects the natural,” I think she said.

All of these colliding notions emerge from her Crasset-designed apartment off the Champs-Ãlysées. Dubbed Fegh Shui House, it’s more like a Disney Toontown. The appliances are oversize, capable of being operated with Mickey Mouse mittens. The artwork seems to pop off the walls with a kind of three-dimensional zip. Her midnight blue vinyl couch borders on sculpture.

“Wait! Wait!” She wants to make her liquid cake. Twirling and humming, she pours Champagne into a big mixing bowl, then splashes in some vodka and scoops in ice cream, passion-fruit purée and butter cookies. She mixes it all together and pours a slice into a huge martini glass. Is it any surprise that this, too, is a wonderful invention?

Puntarella With Green Anchoïade

1 ½ pounds puntarella (Italian chicory) or dandelion greens

16 anchovy fillets in oil, rinsed and patted dry

4 teaspoons extra vinegar

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Sveže mleti črni poper

1. Remove the tender inner leaves of the puntarella and cut the larger green leaves in thirds. Using a mandoline, finely slice the remaining core. (If using dandelion greens, remove and discard the stems and cut the leaves into thirds.) Rinse in cold water, drain, wrap in paper towels and refrigerate for 1 hour.

2. Prepare the anchoïade (anchovy sauce) by combining the anchovies, garlic, olives and vinegar in a food processor. With the motor running, pour in the olive oil in a thin, steady stream. Season to taste with salt and pepper and mix again.

3. Place 3 tablespoons of the anchoïade in the bottom of a salad bowl. Add the chilled leaves and mix well. Serve with toasted bread. Serves 4.

Hot Dog Chic au King Crab

9 ounces shelled king crab meat

1 tablespoon chopped celery leaves

2 tablespoons mayonnaise (preferably Hellmann’s)

Sveže mleti črni poper

2 to 3 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon minced chives.

1. Squeeze the crab meat between your hands to remove all the moisture and then break into large pieces and place in a large bowl. Add the celery leaves, mayonnaise and lemon juice and mix well. Season to taste with salt, pepper and red-pepper flakes.

2. In a nonstick skillet set over low heat, heat the butter until it begins to foam. Brown the hot-dog buns on both sides and set aside to cool slightly.

3. Spread 1/4 of the mixture into each bun and sprinkle with chives.

Postrezite takoj. Serves 4.

Liquid Cake

1 passion fruit, skinned and seeded

¼ cup vanilla ice cream, softened

¼ cup mango sorbet, softened

2 butter cookies, crumbled.

1. Halve the passion fruit and, using a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, scrape the pulp through a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl. Discard the remaining seeds and pulp.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the ice cream and sorbet. Pour in the vodka and whisk lightly. Stir in the passion-fruit purée and then fold in the Champagne.

3. Sprinkle the cookies evenly among 4 martini glasses. Top each with the vodka mixture and serve immediately. Serves 4. All recipes adapted from Frédérick Grasser-Hermé.


The Baker’s Ex-Wife

Frédérick Grasser-Hermé commits the cardinal dining-room sin before she even leaves the kitchen: she plays with her food. And she’s liable to play with yours. She dances around her Paris kitchen humming snatches of French tunes while she whips up a liquid cake, cheese froufrous and chicken in Coca-Cola sauce.

“This,” she explains in an attempt at English, “is a Manhattan tributary.”

What she means is that she has concocted a constructivist tribute to New York City, with leeks and pretzels rising off a plate to simulate the Manhattan skyline.

Frédérick E. Grasser-Hermé (Fegh to friends) is a gamine 60-something whose boundless enthusiasm has allowed her to produce more than 20 cookbooks, including “La Cuisinière du Cuisinier” with Alain Ducasse. This in spite of the fact that she didn’t come to cooking until her foodie friends introduced her to fine cuisine when she was a 30-year-old advertising executive. She has credited a single meal at Alain Chapel’s restaurant in Mionnay for her career epiphany.

She slaps a blob of Babybel cheese on a plate, sprinkles it with truffle salt and sticks it into a microwave. Out comes a tasty snack — one of those things you eat and then have a second wave of surprise at how good it is.

“Parlor tricks,” sniffs Jeffrey Steingarten, the food writer and longtime friend of Grasser-Hermé. “After you eat the microwaved cheese two or three times, it is not so interesting.”

Nevertheless, Steingarten considers her a very good cook. “When she was married” — she and Pierre Hermé, perhaps the world’s most highly esteemed pastry chef, were together for 14 years their divorce was amicable, and they speak often about professional matters — “I would go to their house for dinner, and she would always be the one to cook. She would make classic meals: lamb with apricots, pork bellies — crisp and delicious. And surprisingly, she has a better palate than Pierre, although he has a very good palate. It’s just that he eats too fast.” (Not long ago, Grasser-Hermé and her ex-husband made a 15-hour pilgrimage by car to Ferran Adrià’s El Bulli restaurant in Roses, Spain. They spent 10 hours eating one course after another, and at the end, Pierre was still hungry.)

Steingarten is not the only one who admires Grasser-Hermé’s culinary skills. Her fans extend into the art and design worlds, where they value her offbeat concoctions. For a recent reception following the opening of a neo-realist exhibit at Le Grand Palais, she produced a colorful mélange of treats: cobalt blue flying-fish roe mounded on top of a marrow bone and peas and grated carrots suspended in a square of agar-agar. Even her most recent cookbook, “Serial Colors” (L’Ãpure Editions), was packaged in a pot by the of-the-moment designer Matali Crasset.

Grasser-Hermé always has her fingers in a variety of pots when she is not writing magazine columns or consulting with hotel and restaurant chefs, she is dreaming up new dishes. (She and Pierre opened the short-lived Korova restaurant, which served her Coca-Cola chicken and other whimsical fare.) Her most recent obsession, apart from a desire to deconstruct pot-au-feu, is the “Technicolor cooking” she explored in “Serial Colors.” She calls it “the rainbow of my dreams: a white polar-bear cocktail, a black truffle pizza, a blue lobster roll, violet mashed potatoes with cassis. . . .

“We must find in nature the right color so that food reflects the natural,” I think she said.

All of these colliding notions emerge from her Crasset-designed apartment off the Champs-Ãlysées. Dubbed Fegh Shui House, it’s more like a Disney Toontown. The appliances are oversize, capable of being operated with Mickey Mouse mittens. The artwork seems to pop off the walls with a kind of three-dimensional zip. Her midnight blue vinyl couch borders on sculpture.

“Wait! Wait!” She wants to make her liquid cake. Twirling and humming, she pours Champagne into a big mixing bowl, then splashes in some vodka and scoops in ice cream, passion-fruit purée and butter cookies. She mixes it all together and pours a slice into a huge martini glass. Is it any surprise that this, too, is a wonderful invention?

Puntarella With Green Anchoïade

1 ½ pounds puntarella (Italian chicory) or dandelion greens

16 anchovy fillets in oil, rinsed and patted dry

4 teaspoons extra vinegar

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Sveže mleti črni poper

1. Remove the tender inner leaves of the puntarella and cut the larger green leaves in thirds. Using a mandoline, finely slice the remaining core. (If using dandelion greens, remove and discard the stems and cut the leaves into thirds.) Rinse in cold water, drain, wrap in paper towels and refrigerate for 1 hour.

2. Prepare the anchoïade (anchovy sauce) by combining the anchovies, garlic, olives and vinegar in a food processor. With the motor running, pour in the olive oil in a thin, steady stream. Season to taste with salt and pepper and mix again.

3. Place 3 tablespoons of the anchoïade in the bottom of a salad bowl. Add the chilled leaves and mix well. Serve with toasted bread. Serves 4.

Hot Dog Chic au King Crab

9 ounces shelled king crab meat

1 tablespoon chopped celery leaves

2 tablespoons mayonnaise (preferably Hellmann’s)

Sveže mleti črni poper

2 to 3 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon minced chives.

1. Squeeze the crab meat between your hands to remove all the moisture and then break into large pieces and place in a large bowl. Add the celery leaves, mayonnaise and lemon juice and mix well. Season to taste with salt, pepper and red-pepper flakes.

2. In a nonstick skillet set over low heat, heat the butter until it begins to foam. Brown the hot-dog buns on both sides and set aside to cool slightly.

3. Spread 1/4 of the mixture into each bun and sprinkle with chives.

Postrezite takoj. Serves 4.

Liquid Cake

1 passion fruit, skinned and seeded

¼ cup vanilla ice cream, softened

¼ cup mango sorbet, softened

2 butter cookies, crumbled.

1. Halve the passion fruit and, using a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, scrape the pulp through a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl. Discard the remaining seeds and pulp.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the ice cream and sorbet. Pour in the vodka and whisk lightly. Stir in the passion-fruit purée and then fold in the Champagne.

3. Sprinkle the cookies evenly among 4 martini glasses. Top each with the vodka mixture and serve immediately. Serves 4. All recipes adapted from Frédérick Grasser-Hermé.


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